zthatzmanz28

They call me idiot!

When 20 things go wrong at the same time, there is usually ONE thing causing them all...
I read some old posts (2007) and one thing started to appear as all too obvious...a short and it wasn't under the hood. I know when I pulled some wires under the dash the lights went on and off--but not with every pull..
So this morning I pull the dash and find this--ARGH!!!!

The black plug on the right side the ORANGE and BLACK wire is barely connected--This is the TC lock up?

In the center right behind the speedometer is a cluster of wires that run horizontal. Two have already been repaired and a third is nearly severed..

The PINK with BLACK tracer.

I know..I just ordered the FSM from Genos....

But what is the PINK with BLACK tracer that runs across the dash righ behind the speedo?


ARGH!!!!!!!

Anyone have a harness for a 98???


OK...When I do the check (hold trip button) with key on it comes up "TRP8888888"
the one line starts on the right and works it way left and then the dash lights up as it normaly would in the ON position.
But when I turn the key to START, the #9 fuse blows immediately.

Can it be the ignition switch?

When the #9 fuse is blown, the check shows codes 920, 921, 999.

NO CODES WITH A GOOD FUSE IN THE #9 SLOT..

patdaly

Sorry, can't help you on the 98 wiring, the changed the GH solenoid operation from pull in ground to apply 12V at some point between my 97 and the 2001 service manual I have, so I might suspect it was the 08 model year? I do know this, Infidel says 98's are notorious for changing wiring in mid year, and I trust him.

Does your PCM apply 12 volts to bring in the solenoids or does it apply ground? Easiest way I know is to look where the small leads go, early units like mine have the 12V coming in from fusible links to the battery.

zthatzmanz28

I do not hve a fusible link off the battery. I have a line from battery to grid heaters and a line to the PDC..
Changing the ignition switch...

zthatzmanz28

Now it will blow the #9 fuse as soon as key is turned to start position.

Tried it with fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected and it blows.

Grid heaters are disconnected.

What else draws power in the start position?

I wouldn't doubt if the wiring part 97 part 98.5...

zthatzmanz28

Disconnected the ESS (CPS) and it stopped blowing #9 fuses in the start position. It is idling again,
Tried to move it and as I gave it fuel it blew #9 fuse under a load...
ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!

zthatzmanz28

Installed new (warranty) ESS..truck starts and idles...as so as it is in gear and starts to move the #9 fuse blows.

Can it possibly be the trans servo??

patdaly

Probably not, they drag the 12V to ground to lock up TCC and to bring in OD, not sure on the Gov. pressure, think that is PWM....

Possibly a chaffed wire that only makes ground when the engine torques over? You might try holding against the brakes and giving it some fuel to see if it blows?

Another possibility is to unplug the electrical connector at the trans, don't drive it, but see if it still blows as soon as it starts to move?

zthatzmanz28

I unplugged the OD and it stll blows. How does the other plug disconnect from the trans? I cannot seem to find the clip release..I am also going to try unplugging the rear ABS speed sensor just in case that is doing something funky.

What are the chance the idiot PCM is whacked?

Went out in the dusk and started turning over wires under the hood. There is a section of the main harness coming from the fire wall along the top of the driver wheelwell...The shock is loose and I just started to separate the wires as it began to rain...HOPING this is it when I get to looking tomorrow afternoon.

I really like the 2500, and I would sure hate to put her down...

patdaly

At least on the 97, trans is fused by fuse 8, the 20 amp under the hood in the PDC.

Also, scratch the Gov, it is 5V provided by the PCM........

This is from the 97 data.......

[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

patdaly

PCM is almost NEVER the problem........ As soon as I say that, it will bloody well be it.

Your Tach works?

7 pin connector on the trans should have a side tab to move, pain to get up to see it.

zthatzmanz28

I am betting your suggestion of looking for wires that are touching when the engine is torqued is going to be correct..If that group of wires along the driver wheel well isn't the problem it HAS to be PCM...
Everything works until the fuse blows. Run diagnostic with trip button and all is good. THEN ARGH!!!!

My money is on the harness where the idot shock is loose and probably rubbed the harness....

THANKS for all your prompts...update tomorrow...

If it is the loose shock, I owe you pizza and very cold refreshments...

zthatzmanz28

THANK YOU for the suggestion of wires moving when the motor revs....

It was the wires next to the shock tower. I did not see any that were rubbed or cut. I put some pipe insulation around it and...NO MORE BLOWN FUSES!!!



PIZZA on the house!!

patdaly

Glad I could be of help............ You gotta love it when you find that buggar.