Dead pedal #9 engine fuse
05-07-2011, 08:44 PM
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Dead pedal #9 engine fuse
I have done a search and none of the solutions seem to apply--
LAst week the truck just dies. Look around and find the #9 engine fuse blown.
Change it and drive another 15-20 miles.
Next several days the truck dies after fewer miles until I can only get 1/2 mile at a time before #9 fuse blows.
Replaced speed sensor in rear axle.
TRy running with ABS module disconnected--Fuse blows
Try driving with Shutoff Solenoid disconnected--Fuse still blows
Wire the solenoid to run position / disconnected fuse blows.
First time running with solenoid wired open and disconnected the check engine light comes on, gauges die, trip odmeter flashes and then start to work a minute later.
Next time the fuse blows and nothing is different other than check engine light flashes very briefly about 2-3 times.
What else is on this circuit that can be blowing the fuse and killing the fuel shutoff solenoid?
LAst week the truck just dies. Look around and find the #9 engine fuse blown.
Change it and drive another 15-20 miles.
Next several days the truck dies after fewer miles until I can only get 1/2 mile at a time before #9 fuse blows.
Replaced speed sensor in rear axle.
TRy running with ABS module disconnected--Fuse blows
Try driving with Shutoff Solenoid disconnected--Fuse still blows
Wire the solenoid to run position / disconnected fuse blows.
First time running with solenoid wired open and disconnected the check engine light comes on, gauges die, trip odmeter flashes and then start to work a minute later.
Next time the fuse blows and nothing is different other than check engine light flashes very briefly about 2-3 times.
What else is on this circuit that can be blowing the fuse and killing the fuel shutoff solenoid?
05-08-2011, 09:32 AM
#4
Cummins Guru
Try disconnecting the EGR solenoid, I think it's the one mounted on the engine near EGR valve. Check wires for any place it could shorting out.
05-08-2011, 11:52 AM
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Oh..my error..it has an oxygen sensor...It only blows the fuse when the truck is moving...thinking it has to be transmission related??
It is the fuse on the side of the dash.
It is the fuse on the side of the dash.
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05-08-2011, 12:40 PM
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look at the transmission connection theres like 7or 8 wires running to the plug oil pulls the plastic insulation back and causes a short there , disconnect the batteries first ! before you mess with it I mave seen the PCM fried from this short if you think its trans related
05-08-2011, 08:20 PM
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I will send VIN....I am taking it in for the trans to be rebuilt tomorrow. HOPEFULLY it is trans related. Will also try pullin the AC relay in PDC.
It will only blow when truck is in motion. It idles all day long...??
It will only blow when truck is in motion. It idles all day long...??
05-09-2011, 06:22 PM
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OMG! If it weren't so stupid I would ignite the flamin truck and clip the finger nails of the idiot RV technicians to the quick...
Soooooo, I have the solenoid wired in the open position, so the truck runs, even after the #9 fuse blows, and as I get in the truck this afternoon and put it in gear all the warning lights on the dash light up.
I get out, reach under the dash and start moving wires.
I grab a cluster and all the lights go out. I wiggle and the lights come on..*** is the cause?
The morons at the trailer / RV center that installed the trailer brake controller have left some wires so tightly bent and wrapped, they have started touching each other creating a SHORT!
What a bunch of dumb imbiciles and me chasing every part under the sun because the symptoms mimicked 10 different problems...
Soooooo, I have the solenoid wired in the open position, so the truck runs, even after the #9 fuse blows, and as I get in the truck this afternoon and put it in gear all the warning lights on the dash light up.
I get out, reach under the dash and start moving wires.
I grab a cluster and all the lights go out. I wiggle and the lights come on..*** is the cause?
The morons at the trailer / RV center that installed the trailer brake controller have left some wires so tightly bent and wrapped, they have started touching each other creating a SHORT!
What a bunch of dumb imbiciles and me chasing every part under the sun because the symptoms mimicked 10 different problems...
05-10-2011, 10:51 AM
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The trans was bad long before the problem. It has 200K miles and the TC slips and will not lock. It barely pulls our 10Klb trailer up an incline unless we have a real good rolling start. We installed the poor man's TC lockup switch and it is a little better on hills. We are going back into West Virginia (I 77) and then the Rockies so a trans rebuild can only be a good thing....
05-14-2011, 10:42 AM
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NOW, I have checked and sealed a few shorts under the dash..
It still blows the #9 engine fuse, only now it blows even when I am idling...
What is the solenoid looking part that is under the driver side battery? Is this the grid heater sensor?
05-14-2011, 06:39 PM
#14
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Grid heater solenoid.
I would suggest you get yourself a factory service manual from Genos Garage and start tracking.......... they are 35 bucks on disc, and will make your life soooooooooooo much easier.
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....mber=DFSM98_CD
I would suggest you get yourself a factory service manual from Genos Garage and start tracking.......... they are 35 bucks on disc, and will make your life soooooooooooo much easier.
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....mber=DFSM98_CD
05-14-2011, 06:42 PM
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Grid heater solenoid.
I would suggest you get yourself a factory service manual from Genos Garage and start tracking.......... they are 35 bucks on disc, and will make your life soooooooooooo much easier.
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....mber=DFSM98_CD
I would suggest you get yourself a factory service manual from Genos Garage and start tracking.......... they are 35 bucks on disc, and will make your life soooooooooooo much easier.
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....mber=DFSM98_CD
