I'm putting my Espar in the 12v, and I need to know which ports on the heater core is the intake and discharge. I'd imagine that the line that comes out on the drivers side that goes down the the lower rad hose is the discharge, but would like confirmation on this. Thanks.

 

That is correct.
Are you plumbing the Espar to by-pass the heater and put all the heat into the engine block?

 

Theres no bypass, I just install it so the hot coolant goes to the engine first. I'd rather have a warm engine than a warm cab.

 

I thought about that option, too.
But, I like to waste a bit of heat for ... safety ... purposes. I put the climate control on defrost. The warmth softens any ice on the exterior and clears most of the interior glass, too. I don't use the fan blower as that really sucks down the battery power.

 

It still heats up the cab plenty after a little while, and there is never any frost on my windows, but I did wire up the fan to come on. I've got two Group 31 batteries, so there is a decent amount of reserve.

 

Group 31s is my future plans. I've helped other people put in 31's and/or upgrade battery cables, but not on my truck.
As long as Sears keeps replacing my 27s for free I'll stay with them for now.

Being you don't go through the heater, I wonder if there is a way to plumb directly inot the block/head without running that hose across the engine compartment.

The other thing I've thought about with the Espar is to rig up a separate fuel source. That way I could feed the Espar with #1/kerosene and use winter fuel in the truck. I've gelled the Espar fuel line a couple times in the past. Have you looked at that option?

-John

 

IF you mounted the heater by the passenger side battery, you could plumb it right into the block by the lower rad hose. Only downside would be the long run for the fuel line. I forget if there is a limit for suction lift and overall length of line. I've never had any issues running my heater hoses over the bellhousing to the heater. I just zip tied the lines together and it kept them away from both the exhaust manifold and the downpipe.

I never have looked at a seperate fuel source. I've also never had an issue with gelling up here, and I've had it through -40 weather. We get treated fuel up here.

 

John, don't you have state mandated 2% biodiesel in Minn?
Perhaps that's part of the problem.

 

Yep
First we got the 2% which was actually OK in the balmy winter temps of -30° as long as it was blended with Low Sulfur Diesel (LSD). Add bio to ULSD and you have a mess. The bio drops out and plugs a filter starting around 0°. It got so bad last winter one of the bulk fuel distributers stopped adding the bio.

Kerosene doesn't have bio.

My gell with the Espar is caused by the 4 mm fuel line. I discovered that problem prior to bio.
My ignitor failed about mid winter last year so I never really tried it with the ULSD. I had enough trouble with my truck and the buses at work.