Alright...I tried pulling the AFC Housing, and the *%^$ing Break off screw is dead...I tried the T15 trick, then a T20...both just rounded out the hole... Then I tried a flathead screwdriver, its just rounding that out too... That steel is soft.

Am I gonna have to drill it out? And how the helllll do you guys get at that thing? I'm weaseling a flathead screwdriver in between injector lines, but it's not getting me far. Any help is appreciated, I figured somebodies gotta have a trick to it.

 

Well since you have already butchered it my approach won't help much but, I always take the 5 and 6 incjector lines loose to move them out of the way, get a good chisel and matching screwdriver and pop it right out. Everyone says you don't need to move them but I like to because it just gives you a lot more room and makes things easier. Also, I'm sure you already have, but if you have not, remove the intake horn and it will make the job a little easier too. I don't know how bad you have tore it up but from the sound of things you might just be looking at drilling the head off.

 

just break it off with a good sharp chisel and forget it thats how i did mine and no problems in about 25,000 miles

 

Using an impact driver is the best way ive seen. I had never seen one until recently and they are pretty nifty little tools. If youre not sure what im talking about i found a link to one. http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/70220.html

 

I drill the "pilot" hole deeper and drive a Torx then use the impact driver.
I've had to drill the head off twice. Once the AFC is off it comes off with a vise grip.

 

I just made a score on it with a cold chiesel and the hit it with the chiesel to make it turn out.

 

I think I'm gonna just break it off with a chisel... then replace it with a bolt. And why the hell did they use a break off screw, a flat head screw, and 2 bolts? Anyone else think this is retarded, or is it just me?

 

It's there to discourage "tampering" with the factory setting. Just strike it at a reverse rotation angle with a chisel and it will back out. Replace it with a socket head cap screw for future ease of removal.

Related: On previous visits no problem, but last time I had the local required emissions inspection they noticed my screw had no yellow seal paint on it. They failed the truck, painted the screw, passed the truck, no extra charge. It was a replacement socket head cap screw, so tampering was a given. Once I even told them I had a #10 in there. I suppose the paint indicates an "authorized service technician" had done the work? I take it to the same place each time and it always passes the smoke test, so I guess they decided to make it legal.

 

Get a 1/8 x 6" drill bit and using the dimple in the center of the bolt, carefully drill in about 3/16". Drive in a #20 torx and with a 1/4" socket remove the bolt. Takes about 5 minutes.

 

It's been years since I've messed around with torx bits, chisels, etc.
I go straight to a 12" x 1/4" drill bit that fits easily inbetween the injector lines and just drill the head off. Takes maybe ten seconds.
Haven't had one yet in the dozens I've done where the headless screw couldn't be removed with just fingers after the cover is off.

 

Thanks Infidel...Now I just have to find a 12" long bit...

 

If you use a chisel the first time and cut it deep and use big flat head or a impact driver it will come out every time. I replace all of them with allen head. but dont over tighten them like the dumb &$$ that had mine before me, and striped the threads out of the housing. Its not a head bolt. Retaping that and keeping the shavings out of the pump is not fun.

 

Well, I quit for the day, which means it'll probablly be another 2 weeks until I get a chance to do it, unless somebody near Flint is willing to give me a hand and let me use thier garage. I keep watching that DieselHeads Video and I can't help but want to run out and Bomb the **** thing. Ya know?!?

 

If all else fails, try this...

the fellas here are full of good advice, But for those curious, this is how i do it and it works everytime..

I get a ball peen hammer, a good 3/8 screw driver, and finally some vice grips. I put the vice grips on the handle (it dont bother me none that its dug in from doin this) and tighten them well, and then take the screwdriver with grips, and nail that sucker into the screw, and grab the vise grips and twist off, simple and done in less than a minute

IN simple physics really the leverage that your forearm puts on the screwdriver by pulling it is greater than the rotational torque your hand can generate, especially at an ackward angle or workin higher than you are used to...

If that fails, left hand drill bit oughta do it..

Rick

 

Don't even fool with any screw driver bit or torx or impact. Find a sockett that is barely too small to fit over what's left of the head with an extension beat it over the head of the screw and twist it out with a ratchett. The screw will also stay in the sockett so you won't drop it. And this way you dont get any shavings in the pump when you try to get the stud out with vice grips.

I had to use that trick on a stripped off thermostat housing bolt a few weeks ago and the guy had butchered the bolt with v grips with no hope of turning it.