Automatic service
Automatic service
Hi, I've been lurking for quite sometime, but just registered recently. I've got a 96 4x4 with the auto that I've had for about a year. Bone stock except I killed the KDP right when I got it. Now it's time for me to service the auto & adjust the bands. Can anyone tell me what the torque should be for the pan bolts when I go back up with it? Also, is there a better way to get more of the old fluid out than by just dropping the pan? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Jeff
Thanks, Jeff
First remove and replace filter and gasket, torque the pan bolts to 17 nm or 150 INCH POUNDS (per chiltons). Add new fluid till it shows on the full mark of your dipstick, but do not start the truck! Just add the new fluid (about 5 quarts).
Next disconnect the transmission line at the trans cooler. Make sure it is the line that the fluid is leaving the trans cooler and going back to the tranny. You can check BEFORE you do anything by seeing which line gets hotter sooner. This is the line that goes into the trans cooler. You want the line that leaves the trans cooler (direction of flow). Kind of tight to get in there cause the connection point at the rubber hose and clamps are near the frame.
Take that rubber line and stick it in a bucket. Now start the truck in neutral, and let a couple quarts pump out into the bucket. Shut off the truck, add more new fluid (preferably the same amount that you pumped out), and repeat until you see nice clean bright red fluid pumping out into the bucket (it helps to see when you are pumping new fluid if you drain the bucket between pumping intervals). Only do about 2-3 quarts at a time to prevent the trans fluid from getting to low and foaming as well.
Now the entire system is flushed with new fluid. If I remember correctly, about 18 quarts total. Reconnect everything and check for leaks, and your good to go.
You need to do this in neutral as the fluid will not pump in park. Good luck, Kevin
Next disconnect the transmission line at the trans cooler. Make sure it is the line that the fluid is leaving the trans cooler and going back to the tranny. You can check BEFORE you do anything by seeing which line gets hotter sooner. This is the line that goes into the trans cooler. You want the line that leaves the trans cooler (direction of flow). Kind of tight to get in there cause the connection point at the rubber hose and clamps are near the frame.
Take that rubber line and stick it in a bucket. Now start the truck in neutral, and let a couple quarts pump out into the bucket. Shut off the truck, add more new fluid (preferably the same amount that you pumped out), and repeat until you see nice clean bright red fluid pumping out into the bucket (it helps to see when you are pumping new fluid if you drain the bucket between pumping intervals). Only do about 2-3 quarts at a time to prevent the trans fluid from getting to low and foaming as well.
Now the entire system is flushed with new fluid. If I remember correctly, about 18 quarts total. Reconnect everything and check for leaks, and your good to go.
You need to do this in neutral as the fluid will not pump in park. Good luck, Kevin
Most of the diesel tranny gurus recommend not adjusting the bands unless you are getting excessive slipping in 1st and reverse.
Most times you will just cause more problems.
I've also been told there is no need to change all your fluid unless you are switching to synthetic or the fluid is smells burnt or is discolored. Just the 4-6 qts that comes out when removing the pan is fine.
I use Dexron III/Mercon plus Lube-Guard = ATF + 3 and is much cheaper.
Most times you will just cause more problems.
I've also been told there is no need to change all your fluid unless you are switching to synthetic or the fluid is smells burnt or is discolored. Just the 4-6 qts that comes out when removing the pan is fine.
I use Dexron III/Mercon plus Lube-Guard = ATF + 3 and is much cheaper.
if you have the pan off always check band ajustment. it is simple to do. pull down on the servo lever, put 3/16th to 1/4 in space between the end of the lever and the servo. i have done this since 1966. if this doesnt work then you have internal problems. if you wait till one of the bands start slipping it is usually to late for adjustment because of charred lining. there a lot of people out there that will disagree with this , but rest assured i would never post something that i havent tryed an sure it worked. just remember the book is a starting place nothing more.
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I replaced my tranny pan so it adds an additional 2 quarts and I can drain and refill easier.
I change my tranny fluid yearly with ATF 3+ for the 94 to 98 12V that is the fluid to buy. You can go syn. if you want to but changing it yearly keeps me shifting smooth.
I change my tranny fluid yearly with ATF 3+ for the 94 to 98 12V that is the fluid to buy. You can go syn. if you want to but changing it yearly keeps me shifting smooth.
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