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97 47rh help

Old 03-25-2019, 08:05 AM
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97 47re help

I'm new to the automatic world 5 speeds are my specialty but I got a deal I could not pass up on a 97 12v that a guy payed to have a new frame put under 4 years ago and its beautiful. The man claimed the tranny was out of it and had everything to put a new one in including a reman tranny. I have a feeling that it is not fully the tranny though. When going up through the gears it seems like its slipping a lot no matter the rpm most noticeably 1800-2000 but acts like a belt driven snowmobile from a stop. The gear shift is off as well, all but park, neutral on the dash is reverse, Reverse on the dash is neutral, and 2 is drive as from 2 it will shift through all the gears. I'm wondering if it may be an easy fix or just the torque converter or the misaligned shift linkage is causing it to only go half into a gear as the whole tranny that is in it is red or orange in color and i'm thinking it was built. The plate cover still has a tamper proof in so it has never been messed with. Would any of htis be a cause to hte issue or is the tranny just jacked? I'm knowledgeable enough to put the new one in but id hate to do it just to find out that it was something mis adjusted like a shift band, misaligned shifter or low pressure. Any help is appreciated Id rather save the new tranny for when this one is really jacked unless it is already.

91 w250 5 speed, fully restored safety red, hx40, fuel pin, injectors, 5" exhaust with break.
99 3500 farm truck, metallic blue 5 speed, 4" exhaust w/ break, waste gate welded, edge comp, 85,000 original miles 0 rust.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:25 AM
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On a side note a '97 Cummins truck would have come with a 47 RE.
The 47 RH was offered in '94 and '95 Cummins trucks only.
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by oliver foster View Post
On a side note a '97 Cummins truck would have come with a 47 RE.
The 47 RH was offered in '94 and '95 Cummins trucks only.
good to know, whatís the difference in them I didnít even know there was a difference except for the 727 in a gen 1 and the 48re in 3rd gens
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Old 03-25-2019, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 99farmtruck View Post

good to know, whatís the difference in them I didnít even know there was a difference except for the 727 in a gen 1 and the 48re in 3rd gens

There are several auto transmission changes and styles between the 727 and the 48RE
The list goes, oldest to newer - 727, A-518, 47RH, 47RE, then the trucks get too new I am not interested in them anymore.

The 47RH and the 47RE are different in the way the shifting is controlled and the size of the rear O/D housing are the big ones that come to my mind.
I figured if you where trying to problem solve a transmission, it might be good to research the proper one.
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Old 03-26-2019, 08:40 PM
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Any help??
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Old 03-28-2019, 04:58 AM
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I'd start out by adjusting the shifter linkage (replace the plastic bushings if bad) and the front band- then get pressure gauges and do a proper diagnosis as per the factory service manual.

How does your trans fluid look and smell? Are you sure that you have ATF+3 or +4 in there?
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Old 03-28-2019, 10:49 AM
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Would the shift bands be all thatís wrong? Would you just put the new tranny in with a better valve body and a deeper pan. I want to turn it up a tad if possible itís a stock rebuild.
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:24 AM
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Sorry, I do not know what is wrong with your transmission- so I try to guide you on a diagnostic path.

We already suspect the shifter linkage being bad- and this can cause your symptoms, and even a new tranny would not fix this.

(30-90 minutes to check and adjust, less than 50$ for parts if the plastic bushings are bad)

Then the front band- if too loose it will get you a slipping 1-2 shift and flaring at the 2-3 shift. So the adjustment needs to be verified.

(While checking the shifter linkage about 5-10 minutes extra, no parts needed)

Check the throttle valve cable. Does it start to move the moment you move the accelerator or is there some slack?

(While under the truck let a helper depress the pedal a tiny bit and check if the throttle valve on the tranny moves- 1-2 minutes)

Another necessary test is to pull the trans dipstick with the engine and trans warm, engine idling in neutral and verify the fluid level and state- use a piece of white shop paper (or toilet paper) and put a drop of trans fluid from the dipstick on it- check for black streaks.
Check the smell of the fluid on the dipstick. (should not smell burnt)

So by doing all those steps you can go a bit further- but without the results of these checks you can only pour money into the truck and hope for the best.
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Old 03-29-2019, 06:43 PM
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As mentioned above, be sure to check the throttle valve (kickdown) cable. Make sure that when someone pushes the throttle pedal to the floor that the throttle valve lever on the transmission does a full sweep of its travel. Not enough throttle pressure will make the upshifts earlier and softer.
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