94 2500 CTD 4x4 - What to look for?
Thanks guys. I am going to take it for a longer drive and hopefully get it. The body is in great shape, just needs paint. I have looked for about a year now and this is the best deal I have found within 2-300 miles.
Now as far as bombs, will the stock tranny handle a #10 plate, 4" exhaust, 3k springs, and the pump turned up a little?
Thanks
Now as far as bombs, will the stock tranny handle a #10 plate, 4" exhaust, 3k springs, and the pump turned up a little?
Thanks
You could do the exhaust and the starwheel for a little more response and low end. But the plate will add significant torque and HP that the tranny probably will not tolerate for long.
Is it worth a torque convertor or valve body on a tranny with this many miles (even though only has 40k on a rebuild)? Or would I be better off saving for a new tranny? 3rd option would be just do exhaust and starwheel and then just leave it be until I can afford something newere with a manual.
Well I just got my trans rebuilt with a Goerend VB and TC, and its great. I think it really depends on what you are going to do with the truck. This trans will easily hold a plate, gsk, and the other "common" mods that you see on here. But no, I'm not going to be boost launching with it, or pulling a sled. Besides I can't afford 4 tires for the rear
. Hope that helps.
. Hope that helps.
Well I just got my trans rebuilt with a Goerend VB and TC, and its great. I think it really depends on what you are going to do with the truck. This trans will easily hold a plate, gsk, and the other "common" mods that you see on here. But no, I'm not going to be boost launching with it, or pulling a sled. Besides I can't afford 4 tires for the rear
. Hope that helps.
. Hope that helps.Thanks
My experience with buying a 95 4x4 auto with 170k for 5500 was something like this:
Trans was on the way out, so put in a DTT for 5000$ or so. Had paint peel on hood, fenders and roof so I repainted the roof and the bodyshop did the body for free since some bonehead MA driver hit me and I paid 1000$ for the fenders and hood. I had rot in the front cab supports, blew out about 1lb of sand that was holding water. Welded that up and sprayed in phosporic acid / zinc treatment. Ive had rusted out doors, so I welded and repainted one and did a doorskin on the other. Had rot holes in the floorpan so cut that out and welded up the floorpan. Had rotted fuel and brake lines, replaced those and used hydraulic hose on the fuel lines. Installed two vulcan draw straw 2's for pickup and return. repaired bad level sender a couple times. Replaced trackbar with a thuren for around 300. Replaced the heater core, condenser and accumulator with ac delco parts. installed a DSS, lukes' link on the tie rods and pitman and needed unit bearings up front 250 apiece. I installed gauges, a #6 plate, 3KGSK, AFC spring, BHAF, 191DVs.
So in summary, Id look for front end problems like universals, bearings (jack it up and rock the wheels for play) rotted lines behind the fuel tank, rotted cab front and pans, rotted front cab supports (you can repair these with heavy gauge sheet metal easy), AC problems, air leaks in the fuel lines that might cause stalling after parking on a hill.
Sounds like a lot but I still think the truck is worth every hour of labor on it.
Folks still like these older 2nd gens for the strong lift pump and IP. Air flow in the head is the downside.
Trans was on the way out, so put in a DTT for 5000$ or so. Had paint peel on hood, fenders and roof so I repainted the roof and the bodyshop did the body for free since some bonehead MA driver hit me and I paid 1000$ for the fenders and hood. I had rot in the front cab supports, blew out about 1lb of sand that was holding water. Welded that up and sprayed in phosporic acid / zinc treatment. Ive had rusted out doors, so I welded and repainted one and did a doorskin on the other. Had rot holes in the floorpan so cut that out and welded up the floorpan. Had rotted fuel and brake lines, replaced those and used hydraulic hose on the fuel lines. Installed two vulcan draw straw 2's for pickup and return. repaired bad level sender a couple times. Replaced trackbar with a thuren for around 300. Replaced the heater core, condenser and accumulator with ac delco parts. installed a DSS, lukes' link on the tie rods and pitman and needed unit bearings up front 250 apiece. I installed gauges, a #6 plate, 3KGSK, AFC spring, BHAF, 191DVs.
So in summary, Id look for front end problems like universals, bearings (jack it up and rock the wheels for play) rotted lines behind the fuel tank, rotted cab front and pans, rotted front cab supports (you can repair these with heavy gauge sheet metal easy), AC problems, air leaks in the fuel lines that might cause stalling after parking on a hill.
Sounds like a lot but I still think the truck is worth every hour of labor on it.
Folks still like these older 2nd gens for the strong lift pump and IP. Air flow in the head is the downside.
Thanks guys. I am going to take it for a longer drive and hopefully get it. The body is in great shape, just needs paint. I have looked for about a year now and this is the best deal I have found within 2-300 miles.
Now as far as bombs, will the stock tranny handle a #10 plate, 4" exhaust, 3k springs, and the pump turned up a little?
Thanks
Now as far as bombs, will the stock tranny handle a #10 plate, 4" exhaust, 3k springs, and the pump turned up a little?
Thanks
Thanks for all the advice guys. I am going tomorrow morning to drive it for at least a 30 minutes or so. I will either get it tomorrow or keep looking. If you have any more suggestions please let me know.
Thanks,
Nick
Thanks,
Nick
Thanks guys. I already pu the 285/70/17 Cooper Discoverer ATRs with 3rd gen wheels from the 03 I got rid of on it and they look pretty good. I am looking at a 4" exhaust and gauges.
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