1995 12v 3500 Issues with RPM
1995 12v 3500 Issues with RPM
Hi Guy's
new to this site, not 12v, know enough to get into trouble.
Having a small issue with RPM, can't get my 12v to rev over 2500 RPM. I have just over 105k on the clock and she has been well looked after. all standard ( stock ).
Any ideas ?
Cheers
1995, Ram 3500 2x4 12v 5 speed
new to this site, not 12v, know enough to get into trouble.
Having a small issue with RPM, can't get my 12v to rev over 2500 RPM. I have just over 105k on the clock and she has been well looked after. all standard ( stock ).
Any ideas ?
Cheers
1995, Ram 3500 2x4 12v 5 speed
No, i picked up this 95 Dodge, with 95K on the clock, for $4k it was like this when i bought it. when under load ( towing) I can pull 2750k but when it hits 2500 RPM it has nothing left to give. I was a f350 guy, till my Ford started going south very fast at 275k on the clock and needed $4~5k of work. so I went for a 12v and I must say I'm very happy with it. The only down side is the RPM, when towing a horse trailer ( 10k plus) and being a 5 speed the RPM / power band are on the edge of each gear change, so I have to rev high to keep pulling when pulling away from a stop. its hard to get her to rev over 2500 RPM all the time. Was wondering if timing could be a issue ?
Don't want to start playing with Springs /governor....... Is there any way i can get just a little more to make gear changing a little easier. Would a 4" exhaust help breathing, and cut down on back pressure ?
Don't want to start playing with Springs /governor....... Is there any way i can get just a little more to make gear changing a little easier. Would a 4" exhaust help breathing, and cut down on back pressure ?
Cheers Guy's
So if I'm blowing black smoke with no FP installed I can rule out de-fuleing when trying to clime over 2500 RPM. I have noticed I blow a gray ish smoke when climbing up the RPM ( well over 2100 RPM plus). I know I'm not burning oil, and I never loose a drop on 500 mile trips.... so it it turns out that I'm not getting the fuel through fast enough, would you recommend a 100 FP as I tow about 80% of the time....
So if I'm blowing black smoke with no FP installed I can rule out de-fuleing when trying to clime over 2500 RPM. I have noticed I blow a gray ish smoke when climbing up the RPM ( well over 2100 RPM plus). I know I'm not burning oil, and I never loose a drop on 500 mile trips.... so it it turns out that I'm not getting the fuel through fast enough, would you recommend a 100 FP as I tow about 80% of the time....
If you are going to do anything start with at least a pyro guage! then I would do the governor springs, that will make it feel like a new truck with a power band that extends up to 3K rpm. then start playing with the more power options, fuel plates and such. But the no power over 2500rpm problem you speak of is the stock governor springs, that's just the way it came. hope that helps!
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Hi Brendan,
So the springs is a "Head Off" exercise ?
Thank you for the confirmation on the power band.
I may just leave it the way it is, with the springs as they are, no chance of over rev'ing.
Cheers
So the springs is a "Head Off" exercise ?
Thank you for the confirmation on the power band.
I may just leave it the way it is, with the springs as they are, no chance of over rev'ing.
Cheers
With 3k gov springs, you still can't over rev it, and you will have a brand new truck
The 12v has a very narrow power band by nature. 3k springs are a must for a 5speed that tows, imo. As has been said, don't add fuel till you get gauges
The 12v has a very narrow power band by nature. 3k springs are a must for a 5speed that tows, imo. As has been said, don't add fuel till you get gauges
You don't have to take the head off to change the govenor springs. They are acessible through the side of the injection pump and your first time may take you an hour and a half and nothing is really complex, you just need to know where to dig into. I can get them done in about 45 minutes without air tools now.
It really sounds like you are looking for a govenor spring kit to fix your problem but grinding the fuel plate to a 100 profile and turning up the boost to 35psi with a boost elbow would give you a whole new truck and the mods are fairly easy and cheap. Just make sure you have an egt gauge on the back 3 cylinders and a boost gauge before you start tinkering. Bumping your timing to 16 or 17 would help your egts and upper rpm power band a little once you get everything else completed.
What area are you from? Maybe one of them members could give you a hand with tuning your truck.
It really sounds like you are looking for a govenor spring kit to fix your problem but grinding the fuel plate to a 100 profile and turning up the boost to 35psi with a boost elbow would give you a whole new truck and the mods are fairly easy and cheap. Just make sure you have an egt gauge on the back 3 cylinders and a boost gauge before you start tinkering. Bumping your timing to 16 or 17 would help your egts and upper rpm power band a little once you get everything else completed.
What area are you from? Maybe one of them members could give you a hand with tuning your truck.
Well Knowing that the Governor springs are not a head off operation, this will be the second mod ( after the Pyro), Any one know anything about this set on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DDP-3...Q5fAccessories
I'm way out in the sticks in Colorado ( Kiowa ) so i work on my "Jack Jones" ( on my own). any links out there showing the operation ?
Cheers
I'm way out in the sticks in Colorado ( Kiowa ) so i work on my "Jack Jones" ( on my own). any links out there showing the operation ?
Cheers
Best GSK install instructions> http://www.pacbrake.com/PDF/L5658.PDF
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