sound insulation install - ?? and dash removal??
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sound insulation install - ?? and dash removal??
Folks,
Looking at pulling the interior out and installing some sound insulation everywhere. Truck is just too loud.
Question is, is it worth pulling the dash in order to apply the stuff to the firewall? or is there too much other stuff in the way?
Any other advice and tips appreciated!
Thanks,
Evan
Looking at pulling the interior out and installing some sound insulation everywhere. Truck is just too loud.
Question is, is it worth pulling the dash in order to apply the stuff to the firewall? or is there too much other stuff in the way?
Any other advice and tips appreciated!
Thanks,
Evan
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Forgive me, but that sounds like wasted time and money to me. The amount of insulation that you would be able to apply, and the fact that there are so many areas, like all the glass, that you can't insulate, makes all that work fruitless. It seems to me that the affect of the insulation would be barely noticed. You are talking about a massive amount of work to remove an appreciable amount of the interior, and who knows what issues you will cause, with the insulation, in putting it all back together.
These are noisy trucks. It is a small price to pay for the advantages of that mighty Cummins up front.
These are noisy trucks. It is a small price to pay for the advantages of that mighty Cummins up front.
#4
I haven't done this myself, but have heard from others who have and apparently it makes a world of difference to those who can't stand the noise. (Like selling the truck or getting a divorce.) It all depends how much time and money you want to throw at it. The back of the cab and floor has the most sound transmitted. I'd start there and if you needed to put more down, then pull the dash.
#5
http://www.atpwrap.com/html/dodgeram.html
look at that site... seems pricey, but they say it helps alot
look at that site... seems pricey, but they say it helps alot
#6
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I've done it on another vehicle with noise issues. I come from driving Volvo's and BMW's - they're quiet inside. Love the noise it makes, just dont' want to have to hear it for 14 hours at a time with a trailer in tow...
Anyhow...anyone know if taking the dash out will allow me more access to the firewall or not??
Anyhow...anyone know if taking the dash out will allow me more access to the firewall or not??
#7
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too tight, and way too much work, if you have ever done a heater core you'd know what I mean, theris a poroduct called quietcar, it is apparently better most products, and its sprayed or rolled on to the floor pans, so no need to strip the interior
here is something to get you started on your search
http://www.quietcoat.com/html/about_us.html
here is something to get you started on your search
http://www.quietcoat.com/html/about_us.html
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#8
Before you rip out your interior. Please fill in signature. I can understand a 12v being loud. But if you have a 3rd gen it shouldnt be that bad. Do you have a aftermarket exhuast? what kind of tires? K&n type air box? Silencer removed? I have the cool duals and they are not loud unless I am on it and my Nittos are quiet. Money spent else where might be better.
FYI I really miss the loud rumble of my 12v. Now they sounded like a truck. Nothing better when some jerk races up and cuts you off as your taking a left into the Dunkin Donuts parking lot. You just get up on his *** and he has to scream at the top of his lungs to place order. LMAO just remembering the good times
FYI I really miss the loud rumble of my 12v. Now they sounded like a truck. Nothing better when some jerk races up and cuts you off as your taking a left into the Dunkin Donuts parking lot. You just get up on his *** and he has to scream at the top of his lungs to place order. LMAO just remembering the good times
#9
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I have a 93 besides the 98 and I put that asphalt with the foil back (very sticky) on the floor, sides, doors, back and top. Got it at Lowes. Then I put in 1/2 inch rubber carpet pad on everything but the doors and ceiling. It made a huge difference in the amount of sound. It still sounds like a diesel, but the part that was obnoxious was gone. My wife and I could actually talk without yelling while driving. It's been kinda nice.
As far as the dash goes, lots of sound could come through there, but don't know about the room to install it.
As far as the dash goes, lots of sound could come through there, but don't know about the room to install it.
Last edited by flyingd; 08-31-2010 at 12:27 AM. Reason: misspelling
#10
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you could rip the insulation out on the engine side of the firewall, and put some decent insulation on that side. it should help out some. its a lot of work, but I think you are rewarded in the end, I think.
#11
Forgive me, but that sounds like wasted time and money to me. The amount of insulation that you would be able to apply, and the fact that there are so many areas, like all the glass, that you can't insulate, makes all that work fruitless. It seems to me that the affect of the insulation would be barely noticed. You are talking about a massive amount of work to remove an appreciable amount of the interior, and who knows what issues you will cause, with the insulation, in putting it all back together.
These are noisy trucks. It is a small price to pay for the advantages of that mighty Cummins up front.
These are noisy trucks. It is a small price to pay for the advantages of that mighty Cummins up front.
My truck is quieter than a 3rd gen inside and that is WITH a 5" exhaust - so why not ask someone who has done it before to comment instead?
The biggest difference comes from the back wall of the cab since it is not insulated at all. I did an off brand dynamatt on all panels and sprayed sound insulation in areas I could not reach. Then, I layered foam sound insulation on top of the dynamatt. I got it from some place online years ago. It was foam, then this 1/8" layer of black asphalt stuff, then more foam, then a metal aluminum backing. I used spray adhesive and aluminum tape and it worked great. It is EXTREMELY quiet inside. I also have an amazing stereo so, 2 benefits. I had not done the firewall originally, but when I had the dash out to replace the a/c evap and heater core, I did the dash and that helped tremendously as well. I can have a normal conversation with the passenger at highway speeds now. When I first bought the truck, this was not possible nor was talking on the phone. It is worth it! It also helps cooling and heating alot.
Oh, I did the back cab all the way up the pillars to the roof, entire floor, and all doors. The doors, I did the inner and outer panels with dynamatt and the inner with the insulation. Make sure not to cover the vents in the rear doors. You can also spray sound deadener up inside the door jambs and get places where you cant put insulation or dynamatt. I used 2-3 cans on the entire truck. I think I have about $300 total in it, but lots of time. Then, I did the firewall. This was tighter and I had to remove the insulation right behind the HVAC box as it was too tight. So, behind the HVAC box is just dynamatt with dynamatt and insulation everywhere else. I also used dynamatt on random small brackets and panels includin my CB mount, and cup holder. There are absolutely no vibrations at all anywhere. The only spot bare is the roof and it is loud when it rains since it is so sealed and quiet inside. If i ever replace the headliner, the roof will get it too.
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LOL, spoken from someone who hasn't done it.
My truck is quieter than a 3rd gen inside and that is WITH a 5" exhaust - so why not ask someone who has done it before to comment instead?
The biggest difference comes from the back wall of the cab since it is not insulated at all. I did an off brand dynamatt on all panels and sprayed sound insulation in areas I could not reach. Then, I layered foam sound insulation on top of the dynamatt. I got it from some place online years ago. It was foam, then this 1/8" layer of black asphalt stuff, then more foam, then a metal aluminum backing. I used spray adhesive and aluminum tape and it worked great. It is EXTREMELY quiet inside. I also have an amazing stereo so, 2 benefits. I had not done the firewall originally, but when I had the dash out to replace the a/c evap and heater core, I did the dash and that helped tremendously as well. I can have a normal conversation with the passenger at highway speeds now. When I first bought the truck, this was not possible nor was talking on the phone. It is worth it! It also helps cooling and heating alot.
Oh, I did the back cab all the way up the pillars to the roof, entire floor, and all doors. The doors, I did the inner and outer panels with dynamatt and the inner with the insulation. Make sure not to cover the vents in the rear doors. You can also spray sound deadener up inside the door jambs and get places where you cant put insulation or dynamatt. I used 2-3 cans on the entire truck. I think I have about $300 total in it, but lots of time. Then, I did the firewall. This was tighter and I had to remove the insulation right behind the HVAC box as it was too tight. So, behind the HVAC box is just dynamatt with dynamatt and insulation everywhere else. I also used dynamatt on random small brackets and panels includin my CB mount, and cup holder. There are absolutely no vibrations at all anywhere. The only spot bare is the roof and it is loud when it rains since it is so sealed and quiet inside. If i ever replace the headliner, the roof will get it too.
My truck is quieter than a 3rd gen inside and that is WITH a 5" exhaust - so why not ask someone who has done it before to comment instead?
The biggest difference comes from the back wall of the cab since it is not insulated at all. I did an off brand dynamatt on all panels and sprayed sound insulation in areas I could not reach. Then, I layered foam sound insulation on top of the dynamatt. I got it from some place online years ago. It was foam, then this 1/8" layer of black asphalt stuff, then more foam, then a metal aluminum backing. I used spray adhesive and aluminum tape and it worked great. It is EXTREMELY quiet inside. I also have an amazing stereo so, 2 benefits. I had not done the firewall originally, but when I had the dash out to replace the a/c evap and heater core, I did the dash and that helped tremendously as well. I can have a normal conversation with the passenger at highway speeds now. When I first bought the truck, this was not possible nor was talking on the phone. It is worth it! It also helps cooling and heating alot.
Oh, I did the back cab all the way up the pillars to the roof, entire floor, and all doors. The doors, I did the inner and outer panels with dynamatt and the inner with the insulation. Make sure not to cover the vents in the rear doors. You can also spray sound deadener up inside the door jambs and get places where you cant put insulation or dynamatt. I used 2-3 cans on the entire truck. I think I have about $300 total in it, but lots of time. Then, I did the firewall. This was tighter and I had to remove the insulation right behind the HVAC box as it was too tight. So, behind the HVAC box is just dynamatt with dynamatt and insulation everywhere else. I also used dynamatt on random small brackets and panels includin my CB mount, and cup holder. There are absolutely no vibrations at all anywhere. The only spot bare is the roof and it is loud when it rains since it is so sealed and quiet inside. If i ever replace the headliner, the roof will get it too.
#13
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http://www.atpwrap.com/html/dodgeram.html
look at that site... seems pricey, but they say it helps alot
look at that site... seems pricey, but they say it helps alot
#14
When i talked to the guy prob 2 years ago now, I believe he told me the full kit was something like 1,200.00 He told me it would make a second gen sound as quiet as a 3rd gen standing outside beside each other.
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