mknittle

I would replace it while you are already half way there. It will be easier to do while you are working there anyway.

bigragu

Thnx, Mark. Since I've never put in a stocker freeze plug, isn't it proper to coat the edge of the plug with a type of high heat sealant or lock tite type before popping it on? Heard that you only get 1 shot at these, and if they go in cockwobbly they have to be yanked out and now no good. If that is correct, I have one more for another shot at it. I'd sure like to have my radiator drain plug replaced and cleaned out like NJT did, cause now would be an ideal time and give me more room to work on that fluid damper, but one shop quoted me over $200 to do this!!! $160 over NJT's fee charged to him!! Of course this was a shop in the Bay Area. Tried calling service radiator in auburn but no quotes given on the phone- they want to see it to give an estimate.

j_martin

2 hoses, 2 clips, and 4 bolts on top, and the radiator lifts out. fluid siphons out through the cap. Don't even have to bend over much to get the job done. I pull it if I have to do anything in front that's low and hard to see/reach.

They can't really clean these radiators much. If fluid goes through them freely, they don't have a lot of solder bloom in them, and the fins are in good shape and clean, you aren't going to gain 20 bucks worth at a radiator shop, much less 200. If they are very far gone, a radiator shop can't fix em anyway and guarantee their work.

If you put in a MishiMoto high performance radiator, you can forget about overheat problems unless you pitch a serp belt or plug it up with mud and bugs. If you install one, shim the mounts so you don't put a large amount of force on them. I wrecked one that way. They warranted it, but it was inconvenient.

NJTman

I removed the solder bloom myself with Oxalic acid from the hardware store. My gauge moved 1/8 to the left when cruising...

TO me, it was worth it. I'll let you know how it goes plowing, as that's when it would get warm driving from job to job (due to plow air deflector on the front)

mknittle

I am a true believer in getting as much don while you are working on a particular place. I hate taking things apart to fix somthing I didn't do in the first place
I can't remember if or what I used for sealant last time I changed freeze plugs. That one you are doing is in a really easy spot to work on.

bigragu

Just wanted to post back my results of the FD install. It took me 3 evenings after work, cause I redid my KDP, and did all the fun stuff of re tourqueing timing gear bolts, lock tite and all that good stuff. I also replaced my fan pulley bearing. The new crank sensor I ordered from Genos assisted in that I did not have to rat tail file the brackets to achieve my .050 gap with the new FD sensor relocation bracket, cause the new sensor had ovals at each end of the sensor. Now, the results of the test drive: every positive comment made on those that invested in the FD is true. My rig idles smooth, and at 2400 rpm, 80+ mph, my truck doesn't feel like it's working to get there and maintain that rpm. All in all everything went smooth except for shimming the fan forward to miss the added thickness of the FD. I got some extra thick grade 8 washers from the local Ace hardware and grinder the diameter down to fit inside the clutch bolt head. My Dodge factory clutch would not work due to a different style bolt head. With the amount of shims I needed(just under 1/2") I only ended up with less than 3 threads to mount onto the pulley hub. I had a Hayden clutch from Napa as a spare, and that clutch had about a 3/4" of straight on top of the bolt head, which meant more threads. So I swapped out the clutches, and was able to pop in 3 of those thick washers, which now has my fan blades missing the FD by what looks like 7/16". I had almost 4 threads to fasten onto the pulley hub. Can't remember why I didn't like that Hayden clutch. Only had it in for around 2 months before I forked out $200 for that dealer clutch( young and dumb back then). I'll keep an eye on that Hayden clutch, and meanwhile research if the ones from Genos have that bit of straight on them. Anyways, big, big, thanks to Thrashing for taking his time to assist me thru pm's and emails. To anyone pondering over a Fluid Damper install, it was worth the $$. That relocation bracket is something else, man. Talk about beefy and well made

thrashingcows

That information about the extended area on the nut being thread is a great catch. I'm going to go check my 2nd gen clutch I bought and see if it has that. If it does then I will be swapping it on to finally get the clearance I need. If not then I will start looking for a Hayden, or other replacement with that feature.

Your very welcome Mr. Ragu....glad I could be of assistance.

thrashingcows

Here are a couple "finished" pics of Mr. Ragu's FD install. Shows the clearances of the clutch and fan to the FD.

bigragu

Hey, all back with more test results following this FD install. Took a back road the long way to get to the freeway. 2 reasons. First, I wanted that engine hot to check on that Hayden clutch, and second, I knew at this on ramp into the freeway it had a long 1/4 mile dip down and a grade upwards towards the next exit that would allow me to full force punch it and at the coming exit immediately have to slow down. Wanted to test that damper at quick rise and drop of the RPM's. So far good with the Hayden clutch. As far as damper performance, ****!!! Man, not a rattle, shake, jolt, I mean a recall my visors shaking in the past upon immediate deceleration, but now that is all gone. My reaction to all this is about the same as Will Smiths was in Men in Black when Tommy Lee hit that mysterious button on the dash. Call me lame for probably never noticing that my truck was in need of a replacement damper probably years ago, but always felt you got what you got as a 1st Gen owner, and the shake was the norm. Thanks Thrashing, for assisting in posting my pics so others have a visual of the clutch bolt and fan blade clearance. At a local chipotle now. Wolfing down the grub just so I can hop back in the truck!

bigragu

Ok, sorry me again. Last update on results I promise!! You know that shake we get sometimes at shut down? Gone! You know that thump or clunk you sometimes get when backing, slight pressure on the brake, but not enough to come to a full stop, and switch to drive( I have an auto) Gone! The more and more I drive it I feel the idle at stop gets smoother. OK done. Hope my excitement wears on somebody LOL!!