DaveCFF10

So I'm working from the TST instructions but a couple of things have me confused. This looked so easy from the diagrams.

I have the cover off and the dowel pin and the bolt next to it are not in the same plane. It looks like the TST dowel keeper is an oblong washer that would bridge between the bolt and the dowel pin hole but this isn't possible the way the case is machined. The dowel pin hole ends about 1/4 inch further forward than the bolt hole surface. Staking also looks a little difficult as the dowel pin is about a pin-diameter down in it's bore. Suggestions? I'll try to post pictures.

I was surprised when I took the crank damper off and there was no key. Realizing that the damper doesn't need to be clocked any particular way to set timing like on a spark ignition engine, is there any particular way it should be clocked and if so, how?

oliver foster

A bend in the KDP tab works.
Or just staking the hole smaller will work so the pin can't move out, even if it is still deep in the hole. All you need to do is make it a little smaller so it can't work its way out.

The dampener does not need any clocking, just bolt it on.

DaveCFF10

This is what my pin looks like.




I'm thinking a very long, skinny punch and just try to upset the side of the hole. Sure doesn't look like the pictures in the instructions though.

Appreciate the help.

patdaly

The first gen VE case is different than the 2nd gen P7100 case. As has been said, you can bend the tab to accommodate the ledge or you can just upset the case like you talked about.

The TST instructions were done on a second gen.

DaveCFF10

Thanks guys. You're great.

MrFusion

I cut my own tab out of a fender washer and bent it to fit. Worked out pretty well.

RamDodgeSam

After reading how you can just peen the hole to keep the pin in, I'm baffled why people go to the trouble to fasten a foreign retainer for the pin.

oliver foster

Not everybody likes to fix the problem by beating on the aluminum housing with a hammer and a pointy object.

patdaly

Yep.

If I were that way, I would just do the jig and drill and never have to disassemble the front of the engine.

j.fonder

i'm baffled as to why anyone would go through all the trouble in accessing the KDP and then not tab it.

sure, you can peen it and most likely you'll never have a problem. but as mentioned very early in this thread, peace of mind is priceless. last one I did i peened and tabbed, because, why not?

don't give me the "you can't torque the bolt properly with a washer under it" because a 16-20 ga piece of sheet metal made into a tab under that bolt will not hinder it's torquing ability.

also, don't give me the "why would you add a foreign object to the inside of the motor to do more damage" argument either. because if that bolt comes loose, because they do, that little piece of tin that you made into a tab is going to be the least of your concerns. This is why you should loctite and retorque them all when you do the KDP fix.