Fergavs

Well this was a long, expensive, and sometimes frustrating task. It was however an extremely cool mod that I am very happy I performed. After my engine performance mods I knew the getrag was a ticking time bomb just waiting to explode. After the trans had self destructed I started ordering parts and researching for the small items I would need. I will try to bring up all the parts I needed however there was a lot so I will try to add them if i have forgotten any.
I used:

BD-Power performance built trans with pressure loc pt#1064152 $3649

http://www.bd-power.com/ram/product....n%20Kit&tt=ram

BD-Power torque converter pt#1070215 $1395

http://www.dieselperformance.com/ram...vertors&tt=ram

BD-Power pressure plate pt#1041210 $450

http://www.bd-power.com/ram/product....20Plate&tt=ram

B&M Truck Mega Shifter, pt#80680, approx $300

http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id...subcat=1&pid=9

Flex-a-lite 26,000 GVW trans oil cooler pt#45901, approx $400

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/remote-mount.html

94+ Detent Cable, Factory Part, approx $80
94+ Starter, local parts store, approx $300
94+ Engine adapter, auto wrecker, approx $125
94+ Dip stick and tube, factory part, approx $30
94+ Inspection cover for flex plate, approx $20
94+ Return spring for detent lever, factory part, approx $30
94+ Detent cable bracket at trans, factory part, approx $25
94+ Flex plate mounting bolts, factory part, approx $80
94+ Drive shaft yoke, factory part , approx $250
Braided hydraulic hose and fittings for trans cooler under bed approx $150
Shorten drive shaft,correct yoke,new joints and carrier bearing approx $700
Approx 4 gallons trans fluid approx $120
47rh 3 wire plug for lock up and OD approx $25
Switches,relay,connectors,etc for trans cooler and trans control approx $40
Chev trans mount (rubber block for tail housing) free from trans shop

I'm sure there was more but thats all I can think of right know. Looks to be about $8000 give or take plus us 1st genners wont have cores so I had to add about $1400 in cores plus some shipping and labor and I figure it cost me $10,000 give or take a little. Anyway, on to a quick little tech.

I'm not going to go into detail on the basic install/removal just the little stuff thats different from a regular install.

The factory cross member can be reused I welded a plate in mine the correct height to sit the trans level and put a chev trans mount in the factory location on trans. I plasma cut a hole in the bottom of the cross member to access the chev trans mount stud. Cross member remained in the stock location.

When installing the newer starter the clearance to frame is very close so i trimmed about 3/8" approx 5"-6" along side the starter. Be careful as fuel lines are right there.

Drive shaft is 2 piece front section was shortened and had the correct yoke installed. My cost was higher as a rebuild was needed because it was worn.

I needed a few 45deg and 90deg fittings to install trans lines to trans.

The detent cable hooks up as usual to the trans but our trucks have incorrect linkage at the injection pump so you must weld an arm to the throttle lever to actuate the detent cable. Its fairly simple 5"-7"x1.5" steel arm welded to the linkage that starts/stops the detent cable at the same times as the throttle cable starts/stops.

Add two switches to dash for OD and TC lock up. I hope you didn't forget your 3 wire connector because this is what its for. Feed ign 12v to the center pin a give ground to the outer pins through the switches. One does OD the other TC Lock up.

I reused my neutral safety switch and my speedometer plug/fitting just to fill the holes in the trans as I use a gps for speedometer but it would probably work as factory if you wished.

Lots of this info came from other members before i did it my self. Thanks to scottmn01 and all the other members who offered their help.

Well this setup flat out rips. What can I say? I'm getting better mileage(approx 2-3mpg),the acceleration is just stupid, and towing is a breeze. I can build 16+ lbs of boost at the line and launch spinning all four duals with a 800lb slip tank of fuel in the bed! I'm still getting it all dialed in but I will be getting quarter mile times real soon.(hopefully minus the slip tank ) This trans is set up real tight. There is not a hint of slip from idle to red line through all four gears. I am still getting used to running the OD and TC lock up and may get an electronic controller but this is no big deal for now.

Please feel free to post any question and I will try to answer in a timely manner. Also if you have info I am forgetting feel free to add it. If you feel its worth while feel free to add this to the sticky/tech area but I'm not sure a lot of people go from manuals to autos. Anyway hope you enjoyed the read.

MikeThomas

HOLY SMOKES BATMAN , you must love your truck! I dont know if I could do a single mod that exceeds the value of the vehicle! I bet its sweet thought

xyz12383318

Well kind of. In my Suburban conversion I used a Cummins and tied it to a 47RH of sorts. I actually bought an 01 tranny which was an RE I replaced the OD section as well as the valve body with RH parts. Then I used a set of Hobbs switches to control overdrive and lockup. They are both automatic now. Here is a link

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm

I think If you want to finish full automating you could use these switches. I used the stock convertor in my setup one of these days I will upgrade. Oh by the way, I sure had a hard time getting the kickdown cable to line up with the throttle cable and spent several hour goofing around with it until I got it right.

JD730

Sounds like another happy 47RH swap. I love mine and I'm getting the itch to do another one.

NoSparkplugs

*Drops to the floor and worships Fergavs* . I've been looking into doing this next year and I didn't know what was all needed. Now I have a fairly good idea of what to expect. I see your in Lloyd, any chance of you going to an Alberta DTR meet? I'd like to see in person how you rigged everything up.

Fergavs

I didnt know there was a Alberta DTR meet. Keep my posted on time and location and I would love to try to make it out. Me beast aint that ptretty yet as I'm saving my exterior mods for last. Good looks dont get ya home.(maybe they get you takin home though hehe)

NoSparkplugs

Yeah I went to the last one and it was pretty cool (a little cold though haha). I was one of two 1st gens there and sadly I didn't run on the dyno. Just check in the National chapters/regions forum and there should be a thread with Alberta in there.

scottmn1

Fergavs,

If you want to control your od and lockup the way I do, I can send you the wiring schematic I drew up and use on my truck using relays to shut off the od and lockup when you step on the brake pedal. I use a 3 way intermittant toggle switch to turn each on seperately when I want, and tap the brake to turn them off. Its simple, cheap, and works well

Fergavs

Sure shoot me a pm or post for every one to see. Either would be fine.