ramcummins

This is my first try at this site so I hope it goes.

I hear you guys talking about the "Bright Box" and you are paying upwards of $150 for it :'(, I found one from jc whitney (made for chevy but it works, part # 81ZX1821P) for $19.99 and put one in each of my trucks and they work great. the only drawback is you have to splice into your headlight wires, I added an inline fuse to the power wire and have been running it for over a year and it works great ;D 8)

ramcummins

And here I thought I had a revolutionary breakthrough :-[

DF5152

welcome

Dr. Evil

One more thing, running low and high beams may not technically be legal.....

VCFAB

I tried to open the link for the headlight relay but it wasn't to be found. I am new at this but trying. Any help would be appreciated.

Robert Rausch

I've installed used relays to operate lots of different electrical devices on lots of vehicles. My current favorites are old Caddy A.C. Relays. I bet I've collected dozens of them over the years and used them for horns, clearance lights, etc. etc.

The headlight fix is next on my Relay to-do list.

joefarmer

The thread ID changed when they changed to new BBS softeware. The article is here:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=25841

HTH,
brandon.

VCFAB

Thanks joefarmer this was a big help

10HAAP

When making modifications to a design, it is wise to ensure the change won't exceed the capability of any part. In this case I am concerned about the headlight switch. My manual warns that there is no spare current available on 3500 trucks with cab lights and dually fender clearance lights, and that 2500 trucks without cab lights have only 4 amps available.

Another advantage to the relay approach is that the added light will get all of the vehicle's voltage, where the diode method will reduce the power by .6 volts.