did not see anything on how to install a banks egt gauge on a 1st gen 92. thanks to all for any imput

 

You pretty much have to drill and tap the exhaust manifold ( I actually found a cheap one that was pre-drilled and tapped on ebay) but I would have pulled it off. There are threads on methodology of drilling and tapping it with it on but I wouldnt go that way myself. Once you have that done (to the proper thread size of the fitting on the probe) it is pretty easy from then on- just run the wiring up and away from the engine and run it through the firewall and then all the wiring/install from there should be in the instructions.

 

Glad you went to Banks and not the miserable autometer.

I didn’t know it but autometer has a bad sender unit that gives bad readings.. Now I'll have to take it all out again and call auto meter for a new gauge and sender. (What a joke)

There is a place to drill and tap on the exhaust manifold just before the turbo assembly. The exact place is found if you do some searching on the web. I kept the turbo on and drilled using a magnet to attract all the shavings. The magnet that I have was one of the smallest retrievers that was able to fit into the drilled hole to retrieve any other small shavings that fell into the manifold. It all was easier than I thought.

Tom

 

You can leave the thermocouple in and just return the gauge. At least that is what I did. They had a bad run of pyros. Replacement has been in and working fine for over four months now.

 

Here are the directions.
http://www.tstproducts.com/pdffiles/instpy25b.pdf

 

ace+tomd,do you know what was wrong with the pyro's...? Was it giving a reading of 200 deg. higher that normal I have an autometer pyro+boost so I was just wondering?

 

My pyro doesnt go past 800F... stays usually around 400F... should be higher... did you get the bunk one left on the shelves as well? If so than pull it all out again and exchange it with another... I hope the exchange goes smooth, I have yet to take out the gauge I just installed. TD

 

Not all Autometer pyro gages have the issue. I have a Phantom series and they have not had any problems with that series. As far as the gage goes I do have a Banks as well on another truck, I prefer the Autometer over the Banks. The wiring on the Banks seems kinda hokey with the nut/bolt splice right after the probe, I can't imagine with age that the splice will have the same impedance therefore causing the reading to be wrong. Also the Banks is rather slow to react to temperature changes. From what I have heard Autometer isn't questioning any of the returned pyros.

 

If you are meaning that the probe has ring-terminals that get screwed to like terminals on the wires that go to the gauge, then this is the only way I ever saw a probe hooked up, even on big trucks.

How is the Autometer probe wiring different??

Thanks.

 

The newer Autometer gages have one continuous cable (stainless braided) that goes directly to the gage. No connection in the engine compartment exposed to weather, chemicals, temperature extremes.
I have seen other gages wired this same way. The older Autometer gages had a amplifier box the probe cable went to before the gage. But still all connections would be in the interior not the engine compartment.
Yes I too have seen the Banks type of wiring on big trucks but not all brands, it depends on the gage mfg. Even then I thought it was a poor design, from an electrical point of view.

 

What is the problem with the Autometer Pyro is it sometinng obvious? Is it in the ProComp Ultra Lite line also?

I have a Banks pyro and the roads are so bad here in SoCal that the face plate came loose inside behind the glass and now the backlight gets me in the eyes so I have a Autometer to replace it.
How do you go about returning it?

 

I have the Carbon Fiber Series and I got a bad gauge. I called them and the woman I spoke to said just return it for a replacement, no RMA number, no questions asked. New gauge showed up a week later. You can confirm whether or not it is just the gauge by connecting an ohmmeter to the lead wires. Start the engine and the resistance should go up as the exhaust heat rises. All you have to do to keep the connections good is just wrap them up real tight with electrical tape. No biggie.

 

i dont no about the banks thread size but mine is a kenworth big rig pyro and it works just fine i tapped the manifold myself

heres a tip if you tap it yourself do it while the engine is running that way no small parts are gona go in that manifold

 

Recently some gauges came through with mismatched leads and probe, which caused them to read too low and move slowly. If your gauges are a couple years old, you have no problem. Mine still zings right up to 1500 when I step on it.