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Texas DTR #8 March Meet!

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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:15 PM
  #166  
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From: Celina, TX
So here's my pucker moment for the weekend.

My pyro has been acting up lately and I haven't had a chance to track down what's the problem. It will sometimes hang right at 500* from the moment you turn the key on. After driving for a bit, it will start working normally. So this weekend, I was in Giddings and had to move some cattle around on Saturday morning. The pyro worked fine all the way down on Friday night and running around Saturday morning after I picked up the trailer. So I leave the house with the first load (7 cows, 7 calves in a 32' gooseneck) and of course it decides to hang at 500*. Of course this has to be on the load where I have to run up our steepest hill that has a turn right at the bottom. Figure it's not that big of a deal, I'll just go easy on it and based on past experience I figure EGTs should be tolerable.

Halfway up the hill (just before the steep part), right after shifting into 4th and bringing the boost up, the pyro swings around from 500* and pegs past 1600*. I figure there is no way I could be that hot already, but still ease up slightly for safety. I top the hill and start down the backside and it's still past 1600*. I keep going down the backside and it stays way longer than it should. Then it suddenly swings back around to 500* and stays there. It started working normally after I made it past all the hill....perfect timing.

I'm guessing I was at no more than about 1300-1350* based on past experience. But it is a little scary to see it peg past 1600 and stay there for about 20 seconds.

I guess it was just telling me that I need to get off my butt and fix it.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:43 PM
  #167  
03RAMBUNCTIOUS's Avatar
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From: Red Dirt territory of TEXAS
Justin, i am new to the mech pyro gauge world and mine seems to peg out at 1500* very fast. (with the edge monitor it would take some work to get it to 1500) i am going to try and put the old pyro thermo couple in and see what this does.

Max
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:46 PM
  #168  
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Man Justin going to have to install a 2500* gauge for those sticks, load of hay and a 105* Day!! I may just have to let you borrow the twins for a while...
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 06:57 PM
  #169  
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From: Celina, TX
Originally Posted by 03RAMBUNCTIOUS
Justin, i am new to the mech pyro gauge world and mine seems to peg out at 1500* very fast. (with the edge monitor it would take some work to get it to 1500) i am going to try and put the old pyro thermo couple in and see what this does
Never tried an electronic one, but the mechanical one is fast. But it usually takes some work for me to get to 1500*. Been there a few times, but could tell I was supposed to be there. Generally I tried to keep it down around 1350-1400 at peak.

Originally Posted by bnold
Man Justin going to have to install a 2500* gauge for those sticks, load of hay and a 105* Day!! I may just have to let you borrow the twins for a while...
Nah, I think just fixing whatever is screwed up with my current one. Or replacing it should take care of me. When it's working, it's still surprising how cool these sticks are (as long as I'm not being stupid).

I've ran a couple of loads of 17 bales in the current setup. I was only running county roads, so speed never got over 40. Definitely wouldn't have wanted to make a highway trip, but it pulled like a tractor in the low speeds.

The twins are needed, but the head work is needed first. And time/money is needed for that one.
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 07:00 PM
  #170  
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It really is amazing how cool those 6s can run... But I agree, highway speed would not be fun for temps!
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 08:47 PM
  #171  
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From: Red Dirt territory of TEXAS
Originally Posted by 03RAMBUNCTIOUS
i am new to the mech pyro gauge world and mine seems to peg out at 1500* very fast. (with the edge monitor it would take some work to get it to 1500) i am going to try and put the old pyro thermo couple in and see what this does.
i switched out thermocouples a bit ago, and it acted almost the same, hitting 1500 quick. so i switched back over to the edge monitor read out. and it just takes longer for it to read 1500. i guess the moral of the story is mechanical pyro displays its temps faster. ?

so anyways i have been running at 1500 + often. OOPS
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:32 PM
  #172  
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What's the normal "lifespan" of a pyro thermo couple? Mine is 4.5 years old.

..
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Old Mar 9, 2009 | 10:40 PM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by TexasCTD
What's the normal "lifespan" of a pyro thermo couple? Mine is 4.5 years old.

..
Till the end burns off...

That's what I'm going for. Thought about pulling it out before, but figured it would break and cause me more problems.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 04:42 AM
  #174  
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Must be in the air. Sometimes my pyro does not work at start up. When it does, it reads like it always has. I've jiggled the wires and thermo, but haven't found the problem yet.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 06:58 AM
  #175  
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Charlie at 4:42 am??? Still up or can't get back to sleep?

Interesting conversation. Just had to replace my pyro probe. It's just been on and off too many times. Wires got twisted inside probe and started shorting out.
I blame bad, or earlier, design by ISSPRO. Can't get thermocouple out without removing manifold mount... due to compression washer. Requires twisting lead wire to remove. I installed a 'K' style connecting plug in line to solve problem but damage was already started; finally failed.
I recommend removing them and cleaning carbon off every so often.
I think modern thermocouples last longer than they use to but my new clean probe reads a bit lower than previous one, and cools down much quicker!

RJ
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 07:43 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by RowJ
Charlie at 4:42 am??? Still up or can't get back to sleep?

RJ
The dog woke me up, so here I am.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 08:59 AM
  #177  
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From: Celina, TX
I figure I'll need to give my thermocouple a good shot of PB before I ever attempt it. Otherwise I can see breakage, cussing and new parts in my future...
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 01:09 PM
  #178  
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Looks like we will be having a "replace out the thermocouple" meet sometime!

..
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by outlawdra
I know this is off topic but Bobby updated the Sled Pulling Rules to include water injection and a few other things for the Pull:

Updated Rules 2/23:

5E Diesel is providing the Sled: its $30 per pull per class, there are 5 Classes to compete in and has a $1000 payout courtesy of NADM (www.runnadm.com):


Tech starts at 5:00pm

Sled Pull Classes and Rules:
(Please read the Exhaust* paragraph carefully updated 2/13/09)

True Work Stock: OVER 8000 lbs. twins permitted up to 2.8 on primary charger. Single charger up to 2.8

Work Stock: Stock appearing turbochargers, 1" minimum compression travel on rear suspension, water injection prohibited, hanging weights prohibited.

2.6 Street Diesel: Single turbo, 2.6 inch maximum inducer bore, turbocharger bushings permitted, water injection permitted, bolt in removable solid rear suspension bars permitted, receiver style hitch required, hanging weights permitted, 1" minimum compression travel on rear suspension.

2.8 Street Diesel: Single turbo, 2.8 inch maximum inducer bore, turbocharger bushings permitted, water injection permitted, bolt in removable solid rear suspension bars permitted, receiver style hitch required, drive shaft u-joint shields required, hanging weights permitted, 1" minimum compression travel on rear suspension.

Super Street Diesel: Unlimited Single Turbos, 3.2-inch max turbo in twin configuration permitted, open driveline permitted, DOT tires required. Street turbocharger bushings permitted, water injection permitted, bolt in removable solid rear suspension bars permitted, receiver style hitch required, drive shaft u-joint shields required, hanging weights permitted, 1" minimum compression travel on rear suspension.

Street Legal Semis: Road ready, street licensed semis.

*Exhaust: If the muffler or catalytic converter have been changed from stock, two 3/8 in. diameter bolts must be installed through the exhaust pipe in a cross pattern within one inch of each other as close to the turbo as is practical. (*It is not necessary to have a stack or turn up pipe to compete)

(Questions about the Sled please call Bobby at 5E Diesel 817-528-2166)

The Charity Sled Pull is $10 per pull*

*"Pulling for *****" is the Charity Class pulling for the Susan G Komen Breast Cancer Foundation (100% of the proceeds from the Charity Pull will go to the SGK Foundation)
Any one know if these bolts have to be in the downpipe? really dont wanna take my downpipe off.
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Old Mar 11, 2009 | 07:26 PM
  #180  
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BBA
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From: Sulphur Springs, Tx
Originally Posted by GJJag
Any one know if these bolts have to be in the downpipe? really dont wanna take my downpipe off.
I would put it on the downpipe just in case.


Wow iits been a long time since I have been in here. Hope to see quite a few of yall this weekend and hopefully quite a few can make it to Ennis on the 28th. That will also be a great event!
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