Here are some quick pics of the horn before and after install. I am really surprized by the responsiveness one of these types of intake horns could make! I'd love to get on a dynojet and see what the actual difference really is. Butt dyno says at least 30 hp. http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w...Intake%20Horn/

Mike....for comparison purposes....I like your extra bung fitting locations alot better than this one. DTT put this one down on the side, angle drilled into the base. They are going to work (my boost is in the last one of 3). Putting it in horn itself on the back side (like yours) would be easier and better, imo.


..

 

looks nice,

 

Water will go to bottom...not top! It's 8 lb/gal. Jet A is 7.2 lb/gal (same for ULSD). Should settle out over 24 hrs. Maybe a drum with a petcock on the bottom.... our just a drum pump that sits 3" off the bottom!
FASS will handle any H2O that sneaks through!

RJ

 

My horns bigger than your horn.......

 

HAHA, EASY EASY,

o and i knew the water would go to the bottom, guess i just worded it wrong.

 

Ah! You meant pump FUEL off the top. Got you!
If you need a couple of empty drums, let me know. We only have about 100 hanging around here!
RJ

 

So it looks like my next project will be dropping the fuel tank to replace the fuel gauge sending unit. Mine is progressively getting worse. Still appears to work fine from 1/2 to Full, but below 1/2 is hit or miss.

Stopped on the way home last Friday and filled up when it was at 1/4 tank and put in 33 gallons.

So are there any other recommended projects to do while the tank is down? Based on past reported experience, sounds like something dropping the tank is definitely something to do as few times as possible.

 

Seems to be a fairly common problem. I take note of gallons vs gauge every time I fill up.

Do you want to do it on the weekend of the 31st?

 

my tank came down fairly easy i am not sure in the differences though, and i would recommend that the tank is almost empty..

 

Might want to redesign the fuel line hookup to something that would be more easily detachable in the future. I know Dan thinks they are easy...but he's done hundreds. I'd add a quick disconnect or barbed connector that reaches outside the tank
Good time to add a big line kit....... with your SO pump you must be able to pull PF below acceptable levels......No?

 

Yeah, I usually do the same. But I didn't have an accurate reset this time. I had picked up a few gallons in town during the week, so I didn't have a good picture of where I was on mileage.

Yeah, pressure will drop below 10psi on a WOT run with the TST turned up. Normal driving is still fine for now. I'm already running bigger lines from the frame rail to the IP. Figured this would be a good time to upgrade all the way back to the tank.

So is the stock pickup still good enough? Or are there upgrades there as well?

 

The stock Fuel Module is amazingly complicated, IMO, but works well. Mine was at 100,000 miles and looked like it would easily last 300,000+.
You can just clean out any debris in the bottom mesh screen and put her back in. Mine stocker was a lot cleaner than I expected.

If you've already done away with the bango bolts and the smaller lines, I'd leave it be. You could add a bigger diameter pickup tube,
If interested, but many make over 650 hp with the stocker.... and don't seem to suffer any flow problems. My replacement pick up was a test Draw Straw, 1/2" I believe, and added no noticable improvement in flow or power.

RJ

 

NEW THREAD STARTED!

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=205494