FYI......https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=175974


Looks like Buck is planning a Dyno Day.

 

It's not rocket science, its a freakin' needle valve.

~Rob

 

On the floor laughing my **** off!

 

....HAHAHA..i just blew water all over my comp screens.......thanks for that Rob! haha...

 

OK.... gang! Brian once you get off the floor and Dan gets his computer screen wiped down.......


Needle valves may be simple to yall.....but i've never messed with one. Never bought one. Never used one. Like so many things on my truck....I understand concepts behind most things....but don't have any real world experience with it. So please pardon my ignorance.


And I know if I walked in to Napa and said...."Hey I need a Needle Valve". They are going to look at my like im from another planet. Or they will pull out their catalog and offer me 1000 choices and im not going to know which one to choose. So feel free to have a good laugh at my expense....that doesn't bother me.........but please suggest what I need to get more specifically. Don't I need a certain size? Is this just going to go in the line somewhere (anywhere) between my Cp3 feed line and FP gauge.....maybe where the isolator is now?

Also you are suggesting to eliminate the isolator.....and put in the needle valve.....but what will stop the fuel from coming in the cab until I know something is wrong? Couldn't there literally be a gallon of fuel in there before I could shut off the truck or pop the hood and get the needle valve closed?

 

I too need to put in a needle valve.
TexasCTD- I believe you open the valve up just enough to read your full pressure. That will keep the full capacity of the line pumping into your truck. I have had mine running into the cab without an isolator from the beginning and check the connections in the cab often. I did have a slight leak where it connected to the main fuel line, but took care of that this past weekend.
As far as what size you need; since you already have an isolator, you shouldn't have any problem finding a valve that will accept the line coming into and out of the isolator to run to your gauge.
If you need a hand determining what you need, just holler at me. I work in McKinney and live in Melissa.

 

Won't work that way. If it starts to leak...you will smell it right away!
Needle valves are set almost completely shut off.... because there is no flow 'through' the gauge. This fact protects/prolongs the gauge and prevents a flood!
Suggestion to eliminate the isolator is because they never last anyway.
If uncertain, I would suggest waiting till the GTG and see how we have ours and what they look like!

RJ

 

I would get a needle valve that had 1/8" NPT on both sides.. I'm not a huge fan of the cheapys just because the handles dont lock down nice and snug... My needle valve requires a pretty good twist to make it move. That way I dont have to worry about the ever so slight cummins rattle moving it around... Get all your light bulbs and fuel line for the gauge (diesel compatible) and we can knock it out in a week

 

How many times have you heard of a fuel pressure gauge letting loose and leaking? We are not dealing with high pressure here so the tube and compression fittings are not being stressed very much. Unless it just brakes from vibration (Which can be prevented with a clean install), i dont think you will ever have an issue.

I would suggest a needle valve with compression fitting on either side for the 1/8" tube you are using for your gauge. That is what i have.

SO.......1/8" compression/Ferral(SP?) fittings on either end of the valve should do ya.......shoud look like this:

BUT a 1/8" version......


OR if you wanted to just take the place of your isolator....(BUT I dont like to use NPT fitting if it can be prevented)....you can use something like this (This is for 5 of them....why price is soo high): http://www.calibex.com/Anderson-Bras...b2/prices-html

 

Needle valves are for Jaboni's - Real Men use a Flush Capacitor for their #2 !

 

Funny I dont like to use compression fittings if it can be prevented! I use 1/8" NPT with push lock nipples.

If going with compression fittings be careful what tubing you use... Diesel will eat right through some of it

 

Thanks for the help gents! I will see if I can find what I need tomorrow since I will be going in with a little better picture (in my mind) of what I need.

I guess I will go for push-lock fittings since that is what im already using with the Walbro system and 2 micron filter set up.

And if this don't work....we can try Mike's Flush Capacitor idea.

..

 

Oh.....tried to win the auction on Ebay on an MP-8 last night. I lost.

It was a little to pricey anyway (for used).....so Oh well.


..

 

LMAO!!! you guys are hella funny!!! TexasCTD get a Smarty. You will like it much better. Got one for my 04' and works great. Only got 50+/- dys left. So looking forward to my first GTG with you all!!

 

Robert already has a Smarty.... Looking for on the fly adjustability