I'm looking to add some tie downs between the fenders on my 14,000lb low boy flat deck, one on each side should do it but I'm hoping for unusual design ideas other than "D" ring.

 

Look into the e-tracks.

 

When i get a chance. I'm going to weld some rings in various places onto my 10 footer. Tractor supply has them on the cheap in the horse gear area. Pretty tough too.

 

Depends on what you're using it for. E-tracks are great for tying down a car. But maybe not so good for what you're using. You might be better off with winch straps. Gotta pick the right tool for the job.

 

I looked at the E track but I need something heavier, I also though about winch straps but there wouod be no room to tighten them or to even mount them. The trailer has stake pockets so I use chains and ratchet binders or flat buckle ratchet straps but the area of the fenders has no place to attach to and I need one more tie down in that area. Weld on D rings would work except that you would have to weld one side right up against the fender and might not get a good weld on that one side because of the angle. I have some bolt on 11,000lb D rings but they would have to mount at 90 degrees and I'd have to cut the fender for clearance, don't want to do that. I had thought of attaching about a foot of G70 transport chain to the frame on each side, that would bring the chain above the fender so I could use a grab hook to attach to, down side is the chains would always be there rattling around. While searching around the web since I posted I've found some interesting solutions but non that would really work well. This tie down spot would be used for trying down the front end of lifts of 10ft fence posts I can strap the rear end ok, I can't move forward any because of a bulkhead and skid steer up front.

 

Steel or wood deck?

Tow trucks have key shaped holes cut into the deck to allow chain to drop thru and then lock into.

 

 

It has a wood deck because of the skid steer and muddy tires... I like the idea of the key hole welded to the frame standing upright, I had seen some that were just holes but this would mean I could use a short length of chain and have it easy removable.

 

Might be tough to get the chain to stay in the slot if the plate is mounted vertically and the slot is pointed up at a 45* angle.

 

Unless I come across another idea I'll probably use the keyhole slot you suggested, I would have the slot horizontal and the slot toward the front, this will hold a side to side and a forward force as in a violent swerve on sudden stop, the frame rail is under 2 inches wide so there isn't much to attach to if I lay it down flat. I need to give it more though.

 

After mulling things over I bought 11000lb bolt on "D" rings then cut off the bolt holes to make narrower so they can be welded to the frame beside the fenders. The only weld on ones I could find were 20,000lb and much larger and wider. Thanks for the replies and ideas.

 

The guy I buy D rings from sells on eBay under the name starrproducts $3.50 or less ea delivered, when you get 10.

I charge the landscape/race car guys $50 for the first D ring (turn on welder) $40 for 2nd (pay for the argon or helium, and wire) and $25 ea for all additional, in one shot. They normally get either 6 or 8 at a time, takes about an hour.

I figure at that rate in 300 years it will pay for my Miller Dynasty 350 and Mig 350P aluma pro welders..

 

Talking D rings... I recently bought a bunch of D rings on sale as I'm always doing "stuff". When I got them home although they looked the same I realized the are only rated at 4000lbs whereas the ones I normally buy are 11,000lbs, I kept them for jobs that really don't matter but for a trailer tie down it's just not worth the difference in price to use the much lower rated ones.