whitebuffalo

can a torsion axle be cut and sleeved to lengthen/shorten the width? or does the rubber run all the way through the axle tube?

chaikwa

No, it does NOT run all the way. Usually 2 feet or so is about it, depending on the weight rating of the axle. Higher rated axles have longer rubber strips in them. this is how they get different weight ratings from the same size axle tubes.

Just be aware that you need to keep the portions with the rubber in them cool when cutting and rewelding.

chaikwa.

whitebuffalo

its a 7k axle (they are). cutting it shouldn't be a problem, i can use the chop saw and spray it to keep cool. welding it back....i guess if i do it in short intervals (like on a regular axle) and let it cool between intervals, it'll be ok?

chaikwa

Continuous welding the joint won't hurt the rubber as long as you're at least a foot or better from where the rubber ends and you keep some water running as close as you can to the joint without it getting into the joint you're welding on. I've even tied 2 wet rags around the axle on either side of the joint while welding, spread them out so they're covering as much of the axle tube as they'll cover, then sprayed the axle with water after I was done. Just don't spray real close to the newly welded joint or you'll make it brittle. Grind the weld after you're done to assure there's no porosity. Keep your grinding 'marks' running in line with the axle, not accross it. If this isn't clear enough, let me know and I'll go out in the shop and grind something, take a pic and post it. This DOES make a difference in the possibility of future cracking of the weld joint, believe it or not!

I also don't sleeve the connection over the joint, there's really no need for it if it's welded prooperly. I just V-groove both ends of the axle at the weld joint and butt them together. Make sure your heat is high enough to weld all the way thru the joint to the interior side, making a solid connection.

Also make sure you try and keep the bend in the axle as close to original as possible... they're not flat and straight! This will make a difference in tire wear and the ability of the axle to maintain it's weight rating. I've found that just 'eyeing' it before cutting and welding and getting it as close as possible is sufficient.

I can do it for you if you wanna bring it up!

chaikwa.

whitebuffalo

thanks for the info. i've done the rag thing before and found it to be pretty effective. i did not realize though that they were not flat. i havent gotten the axles yet, so maybe once i pick them up ill see how tough it'll be. if i was closer i'd totally take you up on the offer , but i guess ill have to wing it on my own here

im guessing 7018 rod should be adequate?

you mention the grinding.....do mean grind it so that the grooves go parallel to the axle and perpendicular to the weld?

thanks again for all the help.

chaikwa

7018 will be fine.

I've attached a diagram/pic, hopefully it'll make things as clear as mud!

Lemme know if you still don't understand and we'll do something else.

chaikwa.

chaikwa

We may HAVE to do something else because you can't really read it so well. Maybe if you can save it to your 'puter and then enlarge it or somethin'?

chaikwa.

whitebuffalo

no, i gotcha loud and clear. thanks for the info. now i just need to go get the axles

i've searched all through here for info on torsion vs spring axles. its pretty well divided on who likes what. this will be for my gooseneck flatbed.......so, we shall see how it works

whitebuffalo

after grinding the welds down, you dont think its necessary to weld any sort of diamond patch over it? (not doubting you, just clarifying)

chaikwa

No, I don't like doing that unless I have no choice, i.e.; I feel the wall thickness won't withstand the welding process without losing integrity. This won't be the case with torsion axles, (unless they're something other than Dexter), as their walls are at LEAST 3/16", most of the time 1/4" or 3/8". As long as you are a marginally decent welder and understand the basics of the welding process, 9which it sounds like you are), you'll be just fine.

You're on the right track tho with that diamond shape you were speaking of. A diamond would make your weld be positioned at a 45 degree angle in relation to the height or width of the axle tube... you should never weld any weight carrying member, (axle, frame rail, I-beam, channel, etc), at more than a 45 degree. A 90 degree weld, meaning straight accross the width or height of the tube or frame rail, acts just like a perforation in a piece of paper and creates a weak spot. In the case of lengthening or shortening your axle tubes you don't have a lot of choice and the weight it is carrying is minimal in relation to the tubes' wall thickness, but even then, a 45 degree cut and re-weld would be ideal, but unnecessary.

whitebuffalo

i went and looked at the axles tonight, but i think its going to be a no go. they are underslung more so than i expected, so just merely putting blocks in would not be enough, i'd have to notch out the sides into drive over fenders. i wouldnt mind the trailer being lower, but i think its going to be more work than its worth. also, one end of one axle looked a little out of whack. like it might have curb checked a little hard. i definitely dont want to put all the work into swapping these in only to have to replace one right away. the price is definetly right for these, im just not sure its going to work best for my application.

Thanks again chaikwa for all of your help on this. i really do appreciate it.

chaikwa

Dang! That kinda stinks, don't it? I've seen 'em bent before. Usually the trailing arm that the spindle is attached to is what bends, and they're not replacable.

You need a fairly heavy axle, if I remember correctly? Not anything like a 3500 pounder, right?

chaikwa.

whitebuffalo

yeah, i know. im kind of bummed about it. the guy swore it pulled fine, and im inclined to believe him, but the underslung-ness combined with the seemingly bent arm is enough to turn me off.

yeah, i need a pair of 7kers. well.....i guess its all relative actually. i want a pair of 7kers . im just kind of waiting until i can find a sweet deal....