matthopp

I will be re-wiring my entire trailer soon, but I have had some unusual looks from the trailer parts dealers when I am getting parts quotes. The trailer is a 32’ gooseneck horse-trailer as seen in my photo gallery. I will be running ALL new wire and ALL new lights. I will be getting approximately 40’ of molded 6-way wire (hopefully 14ga) to run the length of the trailer (will run along the bottom of one side). I will splice into the wire in the gooseneck and run a single wire (same gauge) and run that along the centerline of the roof of the trailer to the back. I will then tap into this wire to run all of my roof clearance lights (14 amber/red). I will then splice into the molded wire near the tires to supply the brakes. At the end of the trailer, I will splice into the molded wire again to supply one-side of the tail markers, then run the molded wire along the rear to the other side and tie into the other tail markers. I will throw some reflectors along various points on the lower rail of the trailer. I believe this is the current wiring situation on the trailer. I am just unsure how other enclosed trailers have tapped into the clearance lights. I have wired many trailers before, but always boat or flatbeds. I may also run a hot wire into the trailer from the gooseneck for an interior light.

pappyman

14 ga wire is the best size.....at any connection solder that connection and I like to put heat shrink around the connection...support the wire with frame clips or clamps...the ground wire is very important I use 10 ga wire for the ground and ground it to the frame at a couple of different spots....on the bulb bases and light mounting screws I put dielectric grease to stop corrosion

AggieJustin

Pappy is right. Soldering and heat shrinking any of the connections are best. The soldered connection is much smaller than a scotch-lok and much more reliable.

If that's 32' of usable trailer, you're going to need more than 40' of molded 6-way. Don't forget to account for the distance across the back, through the neck and the extra length for the cord in the bed. It easier to keep one continuous piece running from the plug all the way to the last light in the back than it is to splice that stuff together.

The ground is very important. I usually ground once somewhere in the neck and again in the back (where the majority of your lights are). With your trailer length, it might not be a bad idea to get another one midway back just to be sure. Since all of the lights ground through the mounting base, you want to make sure you have the best ground possible. As for the brakes, I usually ground each one to the nearest point on the frame and try not to share grounds between them.

Justin

P.S. Depending on what kind of condition the wire currently in the trailer is, you might want to also have a fish tape on hand. Usually you can use the old wire to pull the new wire through the tight spots (or to pull the fish line through). But if it has any breaks, a fish tape is the easiest way to get through.
And running a hot wire is a good idea. You'll have an extra one in that molded 6-way and a +12V line is very useful. Either for interior lighting or exterior work/backup lighting.

I've rewired three trailers before, so if you have any other questions just let me know.

Rattletrap1

I have one word:

www.delcity.net

get 100' spool and other stuff for cheap.

matthopp

Awesome website--It looks like i will be ordering my stuff through them...Much cheaper than i have seen!!

THe trailer is 32' from gooseneck to end, but since it looks like i will be ordering 100' of wire, i should have plenty. Gotta decide what clearence lights will be the best and if i should upgrade to the 12ga

DF5152

i think 14 guage wire should be plenty there is not alot of current draw threw small marker lites. especially if you switch to LED's. Never use a scotch locks unless you want problems! i agree that soldering is the best but i have had very good luck with non-insulated crimp connector and shrink tube it is my preferred method.

Dan

Rattletrap1

Glad you liked delcity.net Matt. I don't even look anywhere else within their product line. When I wired my 12v to my camper I could buy 100' spool of 8 gauge for what other folks wanted for just 30'. Lighting I ran 14 gauge ribbon wire. Good quality cheap trailer plugs/recepticles too.

If you solder and get the good heatshrink with the glue inside it's bulletproof.

matthopp

Does this place have good quality stuff? ie lights, wire, etc. It is much cheaper than most places i have seen

handymantim

Rattletrap,

I just placed an order at DelCity and I need some reassurance that it is a reputable site. The final screen didn't show any shipping charges. In addition, the final page didn't look like a "receipt" like most websites will show. Also, they never sent me any email like most retail sites will do after the order is submitted.

How long did it take for you to get anything back (email) from them after placing your order(s)?

Thanks

matthopp

I placed an order on friday morning. I printed out a page that was my invoice. I then got an invoice through email later, excluding shipping charges. I read somewhere that shipping would be added once it is shipped; which i am not to fond of. I like to know my total costs. I am also trying to track my order, but havent had any luck using it; I just want a UPS tracking number! I estimated my shipping charges through the UPS website and registered with Delcity as a one-time user.

Rattletrap1

I can't recall what "reciept" stuff I got. I may have called mine in, because I was in a hurry and wanted to make sure it was coming from Nevada (UPS ground only takes 2 days from there). I do know I was happy in the end with price, service, quality.

I got turned on to them by a buddy that works for Oregon Dept. of Forestry. During the non-fire months he works in their auto shop, fabricating and maintaining. He had nothing but good to say about them. You should be fine. Give them a call if you're in doubt that your order was processed correctly.