I plan on installing the Pac Brake PRXB on my truck and I have a couple of questions for those of you running this exhaust brake. I am assuming that the install using the diagram for the compressor wiring and airline plumbing for vehicles not using the ECM bypass is what everyone has used on the 2006 trucks with a standard transmission.

I noticed in the instructions that a clutch switch can be installed to provide brake disengagement during clutching, IS this a necessity? WHAT benefit does this really provide? Did you install this? If I am reading things correctly, the ECM provides for momentary clutching but it has a slight delay that the switch shortens the delay time? Is this delay time really a signifigant issue?

I also noticed that an additional on/off switch for the compressor itself can be installed. Would this be a good idea to have this switch in the power line as a back up power disconnect? If so, where would it best be installed - in the engine compartment or in the cab? And again, is this necessary or just something that would be smart to do?

Where is your air tank mounted? In the directions they suggest mounting it behind the left front wheel on the frame, has this been a good, safe place to mount the tank? Is there somewhere more protected that has been used? I was thinking about stuff being thrown at the tank and the pressure switch from the tire, road debris, etc, just wondering what everyone's experience has been so far.

Finally, how does this work with the cruise control? Is there anything I need to know specifically as far as the do's and don'ts? I know that using it when driving on icy/snowy roads is not recommended, that's a no brainer as to why not.

Any information, answers to my questions would be greatly appreciated. Overall the install seems pretty straigh forward, it's just the little stuff that has caught my attention and I want to just install it and use it without having to go back and make changes.

TIA - CD

 

I have an 06 2500 4x4 and added the PacBrake PRXB. I'll try to answer your questions.

I added the clutch switch, made up my own kit, because I got tired of a "hiss" everytime I went to shift. The delay wasn't long enough to prevent the brake from engaging each time I shifted. I got a switch from NAPA designed for putting a backup light on a manual shift. It has a heavy spring on the actuator that engages the clutch petal.

I did not add a switch on the aircompressor.

I place the tank under the cab on the driver's side. Have not had a problem with the tires doing any damage. I did add a drain valve also from NAPA, got the pull type that trucks use, but I don't find it accumulating much water.

It works great with cruise control. It allows you to slow down faster when you start to overspeed. Without it I would actually gain speed going down hill as the truck does not having any compression braking by itself.

I leave my own most of the time, except in the snow. It does aid in a faster warm up in the winter.

The only installation problem was getting the exhaust reconnected to the brake, ended up using a bottle jack under the exhaust to force it up to the brake. Just follow the directions, the installation is easy.

Hope this helps.

 

Hey htgreen3 - THANKS for your reply.

As I studied the schematic I figured that the clutch switch could be added later if necessary. I wondered about the possibility of a hiss or something, that is why I asked the question.

I am going to install the gear shift switch rather than the dash switch, that way it would be more handy. So if somewhere down the line I decided I needed to add the clutch switch it really would not be a big problem, just re-routing the wiring to the clutch switch.

The compressor switch is also something that could be added at a later time, I kind of thought that IF you needed to interrupt power the fuse could always be pulled.

I DO like your idea of adding a drain valve to the tank. Where I live we have little moisture in the air, my shop compressor has yet to have water when I check it, but still an excellent idea. I was also wondering about protection for the tank and especially the pressure switch, but I guess the pressure switch could actually be protected by the way you mounted the tank itself.

I am glad to hear how well it works with the cruise control, lots of grades where I live and drive, an you are right, no compression out of the truck to hold it back, picks up speed real fast when being pushed by a trailer.

I guess I should be prepared to support the exhaust system as I take it apart, that might relieve any alignment issues, thanks for that tidbit of information. I would have probably figured it out as you did but being aware that it could be an issue will just make it that much easier. I am good at wrenching and figuring stuff out, have learned many times the hard way, but it is always much easier to ask about this stuff first.

It does look pretty straight forward to install. Not too many parts to it actually. I was thinking of sleeving the tubing with rubber hose to give it some protection as well, I have done that on several occasions. Also wondered about using some coiled copper off the brake then adapting to the plastic tubing, the idea was/is to take some of the vibration/movement that might occur at the brake out.

I look forward to getting it installed and operational, the engine warmup help will be a good thing as well. Nothing but plusses with regard to the addition of one of these brakes.

Thanks again for your feedback.

CD

 

Definetly get the switch that mounts to the stick. I tow 22K to 24K rather frequently and can not imagine doing it without the Pac Brake. Install was a breeze.

I mounted the tank where they recommended and I have had no issues.

I did not use the clutch interupt switch but I would like to add if I get some free time. The stock delay is not enough and I often kick the switch off when upshitting.

My only complaint is the air hose they provide as a freebie is junk.

I saw no need for a switch for the compressor, I let the pressure switch do its job. It works well for airing up tires.

Its been great and I have probably 7K on it towing.


Go for it.

RK

 

Thanks RK for the reply.

I have been really considering the clutch interrupt switch. I wondered about the stock delay timing and shifting. That may well be on my list for the install.

I have been thinking also about installing the in-cab air control for my ride rites since I will have an on-board compressor/air tank. I have yet to find a plumbing diagram to add this to the air tank, also wondering about the need for a check valve in line to the cab air controls?

I guess once you think about adding something like this, a bunch of other things come to mind, never done with mods is an understatement.

Thanks again for your reply, that's why I asked the questions, it will help me to cover ALL the bases up front with the install. I really like doing things once.

CD

 

I also have airbags and would like to plumb them in.. I might use another tank with a check valve off of the pac tank..

 

Hey RK.

I was studying the plumbing for the tank, you could easily take off from the tubing side on the top with a second T, that way you would still have the bottom drain capabilities. Plumbing a second tank would be real easy using a check valve, plus the second tank could be the one you use as an air tap for your airbags and other air-driven accessories.

CD

 

you don't need a second tank to install the in-cab controls for your air bags talk to a customer service department as we have all the parts to make it work.

What are your complaints with the freeby hose we supply??????????? I will pass the info on to marketing

 

Thanks Harold, I will take you up on that.. I wanted to have the other tank isolated from the ebrake tank.

The airhose bursted the first time I used it..

 

hey rocksteadyrobk.

I was reading through all the pdf's in the PacBrake resources and found several good diagrams that show how to plumb up the in-cab controls and an air horn, also shows some part numbers of kits available from Pac Brake that I listed below. So, if you are interested, you can go to their site, click on resources and toward the bottom of their pdf list c/o these documents.

L 5856 PacBrake Onboard Air System - install instructions with diagram
L 5657 PacBrake Air Tank Install - instructions with diagram

Their pn for the 1/2 gal tank/all fittings is HP10053
Their pn for the 2-1/2 gal tank/all fittings is HP 10050
Their pn for the GaugeSoleniod kit for independent inflation is HP 10062

It would be real easy to tap off your 1/2 gal tank, put a check valve in-line, then plumb up a secondary tank. All you would need is one of their kits and an extra check valve. By the way, if you encounter the 'cold temp' problem, where your compressor is running too much, you could also put a check valve in-line right off the compressor.

Hope you find the information useful, just thought everyone should benefit from my homework and not have to go through all those pdf's to find the right ones.

I e-mailed PacBrake a couple days ago using their website form, have yet to hear back regarding prices.

CD