Hey! I'm new to DTR and was wondering if it's okay to weld brackets for my Reese 15 k 5th wheel hitch to the frame of my soon to arrive 2004.5 2500 C.D. slt.?Looks like a pain to bolt it through the frame. Wouldn't a weld be stronger?

 

ticamper
Sure, if you follow Dodge Body Builders Guide on welding to frames . If your not satified with welding or bolting use a hitch that brakets clamp to frames. Mine was welded by certified welder, as was my neighbors hitch in his '03 1 ton that has pulled over 25000 lbs , at times, for 104000 mi , he runs hot shot service..........JIM

 

You might find this interesting reading:

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/13-001-03.htm

 

There is always a procedure to be followed when welding on something like that. I have no idea what kind of steel the frame is. Also, you need to know how big of a weld to make and where and how many. If the steel is not mild steel and/or if it's been heat-treated too small of a weld bead can be bad. Too big of a weld bead can be just as bad. Too many weld beads can be bad too.

Since it's something that's gonna be hauling your toys and can possibly break away and kill somebody, I'd get the facts and do it (if you're a certified welder) or find somebody who can do it.

 

And when the '03's first came out everyone was afraid to even drill a hole in the frame, paying mega $$ for bolt on hitches (how many people actually get under the truck to check the condition of the bolts??) lol

 

wow! thank's for the info. think I'll bring it into a welding shop for sure. My welding sucks.any suggestions for a good 5th wheel tail gate? one you can might even be able to stand on without bending?

 

I have more confidence in a weld and convinced welding to hydroformed frame rails is the way to go provided your hitch installer is well versed in the latest specs. Like you I sought advise from friends; the ones who had custom camper/gooseneck hitches and they all recommended the same shop. You probably have a likewise notable shop in your area. Ask around. When you take the truck by the shop(s) share your concerns with the shop foreman and ask specific questions and if they warranty their work. I'm betting the more celebrated shops do. Keep us up dated. Nat

 

Spots,

I Do!! And I also retorqued them to make sure they were done correctly. Two were loose!!

 

My hitch came with installation instructions for both bolt in and welding. The instructions for welding had welding codes where the joints would be, just like a blueprint would have. Check yours to see if the codes are there. If they are, take them with you to the weld shop and consult with the shop foreman to ask if they can do the work. A good reputable shop should be able to follow the weld codes.

 

I dont intend in getting myself in to hot water here, But I would use 7018A1 rod 3/32 and 6010 root. I have been a welder for a power plant for 17 years. I put my self through trade school at truck and trailer in Dallas TX a long time ago. I like to weld my hitches as the bolts can come loose. I dont like to use lock washer on the bolts. I perfer a thread locking compound. Use good bolts not grade 2. I would bolt and weld the hitch.
Make all of the welds up hill. Make sure you are 100 peneration. And no trash or undercuts. If 6011 is the only rod you can run pass on the job, as it is to brittle.
I have cut and change frames many times and no problem. Dont do any thing that you are not sure of. good luck jim

 

Well, while we are talking welding, I would not use a rod unless that is all I could get. Welding pipe and frames is not the same thing. Now the 3/16th E1718 will weld a very good bead. But the concentrated heat is not good for the frame. For my welding , I like to use the wire, at least .030 for a job like that. While the rod will do the jod, the heat with a wire welder is better spread out over the surface to be welded. I've welded also, 25 years with the 7018 and will vouch for it's strength. It's just to get the penetration needed, it takes more "point" heat. I just like the wire better. For me, better heat distribution.

..Preston

 

I have to agree there is a difference between frame and pipe or tube. We test in the 6g position. Generally it is tig root and 7018 fill or what ever the called for. We use wire for a few things and it is handy for making things in the shop.
I like 7018 because it is strong and the wire maching probably can use the same type of filler materal. It just depend on what you are good with. jimk

 

Alright, as long as the we are stealing this thread, what do the rod numbers mean? I have welded a lot, but just use regular 7018 because it is readily available...

 

Are you kidding?

..PT..