megafast

Hey folks. Not new to diesels, but new to travel trailers. They wife and I kind of blindly bought a used TT, but now that we are reading weights and ratings, I am considering a class 5 hitch for my truck.

Info.

We bought a 2007 Keystone Mountaineer 30FKD. Trailer is 35' hitch to bumper, weighs around 8800 empty and the GVWR is just over 11,000. Advertized delivery dry hitch is 1035, so with the front kitchen and our options......I expect to see possibly as much as 1300-1400 tongue weight.

My truck is a 2010 3500 Dually with a 1200 max tongue weight receiver (factory)

Any input on a good class 5 hitch? I was looking at the Curt because it retains a 2" receiver tube. And I have a 2" WD hitch that I recently purchased for around 700 bucks.

here is the Curt. It is rated 16,000/1600 with WD.......it just looks rather "light" to me.
http://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufactu...ar=1&carId=011

Brian08Q35004x4

i just had the local machine shop reinforce the stock class 4. It is much beefier than any class 5 I could find. Cost 250$

megafast

Yeah, some class 5 hitches look pretty wimpy. Does anyone know what my hitch is rated for with weight distribution hitch being used? I cant find anything on my hitch. No tags, no owners manual. I downloaded the manual online, and they don't mention weight distribution ratings from what I saw.

birdog

Torqlift's Superhitch. Have one on my dually. Bent the OEM hitch on my last '05 so put the superhitch on the '07. Bolts on, has many features that I'll never use, and if memory serves has a rating of 17,000 pulling and 2500 tongue weight.

Busboy

I installed the Reese Titian with a 2 1/2 inch receiver, huge mistake. There is very little in choices for inserts and they are expensive. I should have stayed with a 2 inch. I know I could use a step down insert but it's just more hassle. I guess if you only tow the same trailer it wouldn't be so bad but when you need to keep switching different heights and ball size it just becomes expensive.

xyzer

Don't forget the ball mount and ball rating! Most arn't up to the class 5 rating.....or even a class 4

cadash

X2 on the Super Hitch...That thing is VERY beefy!!

birdog

True. You can only get 14K out a the hitch and ball, but if you go with a pintle, you can take advantage of the entire 17K.

kreynolds

I've got a Curt class 5 similar to the one you linked. It's a pretty stout hitch and I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one. I'm pulling a trailer very similar to yours.

AH64ID

My OEM hitch is worn out and I will be installing one of these this spring. I don't need the Class V, or the rating that comes with it, but its the only hitch I have found that looks like it mounts decently, and it doesn't go below the OEM hitch.

It is 2.5", but that problem is easily solved by having a full length reducing sleeve welded in place, this also makes the pin hole and receiver opening stronger.

It's rated 2,500/18,000 WD and 2,000/18,000 Non-WD.

http://www.etrailer.com/p-45299.html?search=1

Based on the photo's I have seen the mouting on this hitch is much better than the SuperHitch.

As for the WD hitch, make sure its up to the tounge weight. I have a equal-i-zer and its an amazing hitch. It comes in a 1,400/14K config.

jumper

That draw-tight looks nice, cost effective, and no-drill to boot.

birdog

If you install the hitch in the link, dont you have to "cut" the OEM hitch out? I thought the OEM hitch (at least in the '05-'07) was integral in the frame of the truck (meaning you take some of the frame strength out if the hitch is torch out).

megafast

I was under my 2010 last night and it appeared it was bolted to the frame and rear bumper. I might have to take another look, but pretty sure that is what I saw. I also saw a used 2010 factory hitch for sale on ebay........which leads me to believe that it was unbolted.

AH64ID

You don't cut it out, you unbolt it and remove it. Which does involve lifting the end of the bed an inch or two.

The OEM hitch is the rear crossmember. Trucks without the OEM tow package have the same crossmember without a receiver welded on. The Reese hitch is stronger than the OEM hitch and takes the place of it as far as structural integrity.

chaikwa

I'm not real impressed with the way ANY of these hitches attach to the truck. All the ones I've seen have bolted to the bottom of the frame rail, and essentially just hang there. I'd rather see them attach to the side of the frame and then have a couple of reinforcing gussets bolted on as well.