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help me not overthink...

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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 07:18 PM
  #1  
zx14on2's Avatar
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help me not overthink...

here we go. I have a standard reciever hitch. i have a draw bar with 2"ball to pull boat etc. i have a draw bar with no ball, but a 15,000# clevis thru the ball hole.. to attach a tow strap. i use a locking pin (for theft reasons). i want to take a heavy duty d ring and bolt(prefered) or weld to the top of the draw bar, so it doesn't interfere with the ball.the locking pin is a pain, especially here is snow country..so i was thinking of killing 2 birds with one stone. anyone done this? pics? thanks.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 09:39 PM
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From: Pensacola, Fl.
Why not take a trailer and hitch shorten it slightly and then put your D. ring in it. Another option would be to get a piece of pipe that fits snugly over the ball no taller than the ball well a piece of flat stock on top will a nut to the top of the receiver and when you need to use it said it over the ball with a strap behind it which are bolted at will hold it over the ball and keep the strap from jumping up very small and compact.
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Old Dec 21, 2009 | 11:50 PM
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.boB's Avatar
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
How about a combination of ball hitch and pintle hook?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/RECEIVER-MO...;0;2004373;0;0
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 07:26 AM
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From: Carlos, Texas
That's pintle combo is nice, but it's awful pricey for us guys with welders at home. I too have a separate stinger with a giant clevis. After reading this, I might hook up to the boat, then see where I can weld my clevis on so I don't have to swap. Good idea.
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Old Dec 22, 2009 | 12:37 PM
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Why not just hook onto where the safety chains attach. Those points are designed strong enough to withstand the forces of a trailer breaking away, more than enough for pulling out of a snowbank.
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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busboy..i thought of the safety chain loops, but i think those are for vertical weight bearing, more than "pulling" weight, or lateral...i could be wrong
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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Those safety chain loops will take a lot. I just found that out last weekend and didn't even bend them. I had to get pulled out of the ditch by a friend with a truck that probably weighs 6k and mine weighs 8200 and I was really stuck. I drove into the ditch hard and he had to hit the end of the strap several times and drag me about 100ft before we got it to come out. I was waiting for the loop to break and see the shackle go through his rear window but it never even bent it.
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 12:28 PM
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From: On the Farm, Manitoba
Originally Posted by zx14on2
busboy..i thought of the safety chain loops, but i think those are for vertical weight bearing, more than "pulling" weight, or lateral...i could be wrong
My factory hitch was designed for a 10,000lb trailer, although I have never had a trailer break away I can only imagine the forces that those safety chains and attach points must handle as the trailer jumps around and seesaws back and forth. My new hitch has a 2 1/2 inch drawer bar and is designed for much more than the factory one but the safety chain attach points look the same as the factory one. The safety factor must to be at least 2X and probably more so I'm guessing it can handle what you throw at it.
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Old Dec 25, 2009 | 06:51 AM
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i did look at the loops, and mabye i'll use em...if they bend, your ears will ring!!! but hearing that the other guy used them with no probs, i guess they should be good to go...thanks!
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