charger7022

im looking at getting a 5th wheel here real soon and was wondering which hitch i should get. i have an 05 short bed and was looking into the slider style hitches. i like the pull rite hitch but fear not being able to unhook when turned 90 i read that somewhere and was wondering if it was true. they say that once it starts into its rearward movement you cant unhook till it comes back foward????? i also seen the reese hitch that has the remote slide from in the cab anyone have that??? anyhelp would be awsome i dont want to damage my truck plus was trying to keep the cost under 1000 with self install of course.. thanks hope you can help

stock03

I believe you're right ref the Pullrite having to be straight before you un-hook (I had one but sold it after I couldn't find the install kit for under several hundred $$).

I still have my manual slider Reese, and it's a PITA to work the slider. I don't use it anymore unless I'm going to turn close to 90*. But you should have a few spotters; one to watch where you're backing and one to watch the cab and trailer.

You can get a hitch on Ebay shipped for cheap ($500.00 range). Or you can always try Craig's List (I've seen as low as $200.00).

pdogg

I have a Valley Industries manual slider for mine... works great.... no issues.. I paid right around $900 for a local dealer to install it...

07PatriotBlue

I put a manual slider Reese set up and realized it was a pain to use the manual slider so I then installed a Sidewinder pin box on the trailer. The Sidewinder is great, never have to worry and you can unhook at any angle. Plus the sidewinder and reese hitch together are cheaper than a pullrite.

st.rodder2

I have the Reese/Drawtite manual slider. I've only had to use it a couple of times so far. When I do I have someone move the locking lever, then I apply the trailer brakes and go forward or backwards to move the hitch in the direction I need. Works great every time.

Wyoming Geezer

I have used a Pulliam SuperGlider 24K for the past 7 years and wouldn't trade for it. It is heavy, expensive, and yes, you must be close to straight ahead of your trailer to unhitch, but it is a very good hitch. The nice thing about it is you can forget about it and drive, back up, or turn without anyone helping or reminding you about getting close to the cab with your trailer.

alboy

I have a 18k Hijacker auto slide for 3 yrs-25000 miles of towing,great hitch.you do need to be approx 15 degrees max off centre to hook up.IF the situation required it,you could remove the tabs on the head,4 bolts and hook up from any angle. The autoslide is about 150 lbs heavier than a standard hitch and has been maintenance free other than a little grease.

TJAR66

I have the pull-rite and you can unhook at greater angles (the manual says no after 16 degrees). The head removes from the hitch I have had to do it a couple times. Remove two pins and lift just like normal you do have to lift a bit higher.

charger7022

well i found a reese 16000 pound one with the slider on craigslist for 350 and i seen that they make a motorized slide attachment for it for like $250 anyone have one of those or know how it works? heres a pic of it and it seems to me like it hasent got much use on it. it also comes with everything the head slider and universal rail kit.

charger7022

well now after searching on here some more i found that i should not drill the frame on my truck?!?!?! *** these things are a lil confusing. now should i buy a clamp mount rail kit for it and if so will they all work or do i have to get one from reese. any suggestions??? thanks alot!

Wyoming Geezer

In a perfect world I guess it would be best not to drill on a frame, however, if you don't get close to the flange or drill on it, I have never had any structural problems just drilling on the web. Also, DRILL only, leave the cutting torch alone for more than one reason.

charger7022

what do you consider the flange and what do you consider the web is there something i should look out for when drilling???
thanks

Wyoming Geezer

Web would be the vertical (side) portion and the flange is the horizontal (top & bottom) portions of a "C" channel frame. The strength is in the web and the weakness is in the flange. Avoid any drilling, grinding, or heating on the flange. Keep the drilling on the web away from other large openings or holes.

stock03

What about with the "box" frames of the 3rd gens? Do you still need to avoid the flange areas? I drilled sides only on mine when installing my Reese. Went through a few drill bits and lots of WD-40.

FYI, It's a challenge feeding the bolts through the frames. I used extra wire and needle-nose pliars for this.

charger7022

well i pick up the reese for 350. it looks pretty nice not much use on it. i have all the bolts and brackets that were used on a chevy. it is the universal kit and i noticed that theres a few spacers diffrent for the dodge that i need so i emailed reese to see ifi could just buy the bolts from the kit. if not is there another base rail kit you guys would recomend or do i have to use one of the reese kits. thanks for all the info so far.