Does anyone know of a source for free wheeling hubs for the drive axle for a vehicle to be towed?

 

What kind of vehicle? I've seen kits that turned a 9" into a full floating axle, using a warn hub kit. You could unlock the rear end then and it woud free wheel. If you are talking about our trucks, go to a junkyard and buy two full floating axle shafts. Cut the shafts off so its just the flange left. Then when you want to tow teh vehicle, jack up one side of the truck, pull the axle, install the flange. Do the same to the other side. In theory, if you have an open differential, you could just change the one shaft. Be similar to the CAD setup on the front of the 2nd gen trucks.

I've seen semis towed with just gasket material put over the hubs, just to keep dirt out/oil in. You could do this too, but I think having a flange on there would be better.

 

I'm thinking about a small truck or compact car. I will be delivering new road tractors and trucks, need somthing to tow for driving back after the delivery.
I have found a source for a driveshaft coupler, but that item is $750.

 

Depending on the vehicle and its rear wheel drive, you could pull the drive shaft. Of course this would have to be on a non slip yoke style shaft.

 

on almost all (i say almost because i haven't seen them all) 4-wheel drive vehicles they have a neutral setting that just puts the transfer-case in neutral

 

As already mentioned you need something with fully floating axles 2 wheel or four wheel drive. I have a Landrover that has the same axles front and rear and instead of unlocking hubs in the back there is just a plate with a spline for the axle shaft. To find something that is fuel efficient and a fully floating axle in the rear may be tough.

I have on occasion driven the Landrover in 4X4 with sheared rear axle shaft so that only the front is driving. You could do this with a 4X4 with unlocking front hubs that has fully floating rear end. Remove the rear axle shafts and just drive in 4X4 so that only the front is driving.

 

Wouldn't having anything with a stick shift do? Just put it in neutral and go?

 

It depends on the particular transmission; some can be towed for miles in neutral, while others do not lube properly and soon seize-up from bearings being dry.


Locking hubs are only possible on full-floating type axles, which should not be a problem if you stick with a 3/4- or 1-ton truck.

Another option is to fabricate a lowerable or removable idler axle that lifts the drive-wheels clear of the road; such an axle could also have trailer-brakes.


This would be a simple project for a pick-up truck type vehicle.

Receiver type receptacles could be employed on the rear frame/bumper, such that the idler axle could be raised and pinned or lowered and pinned.


I claim any patent rights.

 

Free wheeling hubs are an add on wheel bearing with 2 flanges. You remove the wheel fom the vehicle being towed, install the hub and then re-install the wheel, repeat on the other side and now NONE of the drivetrain on the towed vehicle turns. A friend of mine has a set he scored at a swap meet years ago. I never liked flat towing so I bought a trailer. I did a yahoo search and came up empty on a source for new ones. The biggest drawback is that the hubs have to match the bolt pattern of the towed vehicle.

 

A few months back I stopped and talked to a guy in a parking lot that I've seen his truck being towed by a tractor trailer. It was an older 2WD Mazda extended cab and has the hitch permanently attached along with an extended towing electric cable. He delivers tractor units then drives back like you want to do. He just has a drive shaft un-coupler and lets the rear axle turn while it's being towed. Over time it would wear the rear crown and pinion gears but for an older truck it would be a small price to pay and as you don't care about fuel economy while towing the truck only while driving home.

 

I was hoping that some company made a set that could be locked up for driving and unlock for towing.

 

warn is the only company i know of that offers what you are talking about but i think its only for jeeps. also i am not sure if they still are in production.

 

They make a lube system for flat towing a fwd car with an automatic tranny. It runs on 12v and is tied into the tranny lines, just flip a switch and it puts constant lube pressure in the transmission.


http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...luid-pump/2373

A little pricey, maybe an option?



Tim

 

I'm going thru just this right now for my '02 Toyota 4Runner 4WD, and have been told by Toyota and by Remco that putting the transfer case in neutral and towing it will not lubricate the rear output bearing of the transfer case and it will quickly fail. I'm going to bite the bullet and buy the Remco driveshaft disconnect, because I don't want to fool around with changing components repeatedly. When I pull into a campground at night, I want to drive away, not mess with turning wrenches half the night. Reverse that in the morning.

I would strongly suggest talking to Remco about the vehicle you want to tow.

Lar.