Dodge trailer pkg wiring ????
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Dodge trailer pkg wiring ????
I have an '06 3500 Mega with towing pkg. I don't find any 12v power to the trailer wiring plug. I've read that some other mfgrs. have a fused system and to get power to the plug you need to insert a fuse into the line. Does anyone know if you need to do anything to the Dodge to power up the plug or should I just be looking for an interruption in the circuit ????? All other functions to the trailer seem to be working fine, including brakes.
Maybe someone out there has run into this issue and has a solution to help corrrect it. Thanks in advance.
Maybe someone out there has run into this issue and has a solution to help corrrect it. Thanks in advance.
#2
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On the Dodge, the 12V+ should be hot all the time, from the factory.
I'm not sure if this applies to the 12v pin, but if your truck hasn't had the reflash it would be worth doing. Apparenlty the TIPM can only be reset a few times, then has to be replaced.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2006/08-021-06.htm
I'm not sure if this applies to the 12v pin, but if your truck hasn't had the reflash it would be worth doing. Apparenlty the TIPM can only be reset a few times, then has to be replaced.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2006/08-021-06.htm
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Thanks Jeff. Not used to these computerized machines that are smarter than we are. I don't know the history or if an error has ever popped up. I've only had it a few weeks. No problems elsewhere that I've found. What is this "reflash". Is it a reset of the computer ????? Does it have to be done at the dealer ????? All other functions seem to work fine both with the trailer on as well as off.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks for the input.
#5
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There may very well be a fuse protecting the 12v line.
The reflash has to do with reprogramming the power module. If trailer lights exceed 15 amps, the module will cut power and then try again. After so many attempts, it sets an error code and won't power that circuit until you take it to the dealer to be reset by their computer. The power module can only be reset a few times (like 5) and then its trash.
The reflash bumps up the amps to light circuits to 17.5 amps, and also increases the amps allowed for the starter circuit, and apparently makes it not set an error code that has to be reset.
To me, it seems like a case of using a several hundred dollar computer to do the job of 80 cents worth of fuses...
I'm not sure if it had anything to do with the 12v charging circuit or not. There may be a fuse in the box at the right front of the vehicle.
The reflash has to do with reprogramming the power module. If trailer lights exceed 15 amps, the module will cut power and then try again. After so many attempts, it sets an error code and won't power that circuit until you take it to the dealer to be reset by their computer. The power module can only be reset a few times (like 5) and then its trash.
The reflash bumps up the amps to light circuits to 17.5 amps, and also increases the amps allowed for the starter circuit, and apparently makes it not set an error code that has to be reset.
To me, it seems like a case of using a several hundred dollar computer to do the job of 80 cents worth of fuses...
I'm not sure if it had anything to do with the 12v charging circuit or not. There may be a fuse in the box at the right front of the vehicle.
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Thanks, I think I got it. I haven't checked the fuses yet but that will be my next job. Previous owner had a 7 pin plug installed in the bed. I think they were getting it set up for a camper insert and would plug their camper insert in using the in bed plug. I think that plug has power at the correct pin. I need to climb under and check to see if they may have cut and spliced into the 12v wire for that plug too. Thanks for the ideas.
Well, guess what. Checked the fuses. After all my rootin around and fiddling with the plug and wires I decided to go back to basics. The 30a fusable link was blown. Replaced it and have 12v to the rear plug. So all set to go. Thanks for the advice. Appreciate all your input. When all else fails it's back to basics we go.
Well, guess what. Checked the fuses. After all my rootin around and fiddling with the plug and wires I decided to go back to basics. The 30a fusable link was blown. Replaced it and have 12v to the rear plug. So all set to go. Thanks for the advice. Appreciate all your input. When all else fails it's back to basics we go.
#7
now go back to where your turn signal wires in the loom are and before the y-spilt put some weatherproof fuse lincs in-line so if you do get a direct short you replace a blade fuse not go back for a reflash there are no fuses for turn-stop lights on the tow package!
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Thanks Trailerman. I now have power at the 12v pin. I also seem to have power to the 3 & 9 o'clock pins. I think they're for l&r signals. Everything seems to work as needed but I don't understand why they have full time power when checked with ign. on, lights off. I don't plan to look for trouble when everything works. Just being curious in case you have an explanation.
Thanks for the suggestion on the in-line fuse. That what amperage would you advise ?????
Thanks for the suggestion on the in-line fuse. That what amperage would you advise ?????
#9
sorry it took so long to reply,3&9 are turn sig. but cant figure why without lights on? 15 amp fuse. not on this board very often pm me if i can help in any way!
Last edited by trlman; 03-30-2009 at 04:37 PM. Reason: add text
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