I will disagree a little on the statement of an exhaust brake won't help you slow down in a hurry. Just after I had my brake installed, I did a little experimenting. I would only do this in a real emergency, but I wanted to know if it would make a difference.<br>I was criusing along a flat level road at about 2400 rpm in 6th gear, I downshifted into 5th gear which brought the revs up to about 3000 or so. At the same time, I dumped the brake switch at the same time sending the service brake pedal to the floor. With the seat belts keeping me out of the dashb oard, it stopped a whole bunch faster and harder than just the service brakes!<br>Depending on how many psi back pressure your brake is pulling, it makes a big difference. 60 psi back pressure on a 24v is equivalent to 190 brake horsepower. Doesn't sound like much, but it makes a difference. I only have mine set to 40 psi which is about 160 bhp or so.

 

Homestead, I can agree with you. But alot of times with a manual, you better be quick with the gears on an emergency stop. As far as the trailer brakes and the weight GVW on the trailer, I did exceed the weight. Its a 30 foot goose neck trailer. The axles are toward the back. When you apply brakes ( an object that is in motion tends to stay in motion ) everything is thrown foward on the truck. With my 30 foot 5th wheel camper, the axles are more center. The axles will take more of the weight. I guess I would need to post a picture to explain. Anyway, when I replaced my brakes this last time I went with better than factory. Not the real hard brakes, because I didn't want to replace my rotors everytime I needed pads, so I went with the middle of the road pads. I do have the 4 wheel disc brakes. I agree I need, and would like to have an exhaust brake, but I have to wait until the xmas season is over with. :'( Thanks everybody!<br><br>Kimrey

 

No one mentioned the controller. The best you can do is install a jordan. As was said, the trailer brakes are responsible for stopping the rated weight of the trailer. Makes no difference where the weight is centered as long as the trailer brakes do not lock up. On that wiring, use #10 or even larger, especially on a long trailer. I run a seperate feed wire for each side to cut resistance.

 

I know a guy with a Furd who went roaring down a 15% grade in 3rd gear with the trailer brakes set to minimum. This unit was loaded to the nuts with hay. He managed to get it stopped but his brakes on the truck were literally on fire!

 

kimrey, I would like to put rear DISK BRAKES on my 95.<br>But dont know if they are available. And if they were what would be the cost of the changover?............ <br><br>Ho, ho, ho.........to much $$$$. Robert

 

As far as the brakes are concerned, when I bought my truck I found myself standing on them and crossing my fingers, with a 7K load on the trailer. I replaced the front pads with Performance Friction's high performance pads (120.00 but lifetime warranty from Autozone) and they made a world of difference.<br><br>When I think about it I do some fast reverse in a parking lot with hard stops to asjust the rear brakes. It is noticable in the pedal after you do it 2 or 3 times.<br><br>I also read in another thread about a TSB from Dodge recommending putting the 3500 wheel cylinders on the 2500 which increases rear braking power due to the larger bore on the 3500 cylinders. Still haven't found that TSB number though.<br><br>As far as the brake controller goes, I would recommend a Tekonsha Prodigy. I believe that's the best brake controller out there. I reviewed them and talked to many people, and it was between the Tekonsha and the Jordan, but I doubt you can install the Jordan in 10 minutes like I did the Tekonsha. I bought the 16.00 wiring harness adapter for it (factory tow package on truck already) and when I installed it I drilled 2 holes under the dash and screwed the bracket in. Then I just plugged in the controller and slipped it into the bracket. There is nothing that has to tie to the brake pedal unlike most others. (I don't personally know about Jordan)<br>In addition to the normal adjustment, it has 3 boost levels on it so you can up the braking power depending on your load. I have been very happy with it.<br>I started a new thread in Aftermarket about the rear disk issue:<br>http://www.dodge-diesel.org/yabbse/i...;threadid=8409<br><br>Chris

 

Chris.<br><br>I cant speak for all trucks but I don't know if there is anything that can raise the elfishness of the rear brake on the trucks that have a split system. [front standard and rear ABS] up to where they should be.<br>Yes...........there are things that will help to make them better, but I have yet to see a truck that will lay rubber with the back wheels before the front ones lock up. And that's what I think they should be able to do. <br><br>I tried that backing up bit, more times than I can count, I adjusted them by backing up and then going forward. Did that about 3 to 4 times then I crawled under and manually adjusted the brakes and I got around 15 clicks on one and 17 on the other. Go figure.<br><br>And about that TSB; I wouldn't worry about seeing it. If you want to change the cylinders do it. Theirs a lot of threads on this forum that will verify the change over. <br><br>I guess I could get my back brakes to lay rubber , I haven't tried it to tell you the truth, You'll forgive me I am just a little cynical I guess. I find that with the ABS disconnected my brakes work better. For me that help a lot as well.

 

Thanks, but the brakes on mine are the same size as a 3500. I have the semi metalic pads on the front. I don't know if Ihave 4 wheel anti-lock brakes or not. If I don't, I can't get the front ones to lock up. Oh well, what to do. <br><br>Kimrey

 

The '99 2500 has the same size cylinders as the 3500 the later models have the same size linings also.