I just bought on ebay a B&W turnover ball hitch for my 2003 Dodge Ram 2500. I haven't received it yet, so I downloaded the instructions for installation from B&W's web site. A very small note on the instructions states that for short bed installations you must remove the metal tabs that are located on both ends of one crossmember in the front part of the wheel openings. It states that these tabs serve no purpose except that at time of fabrication the factory used them for alignment purposes. I may be a little **** about this, but I don't like the idea of cutting these tabs off, and would not have bought the hitch had I known about it. I had contacted B&W by email to assure that this was a straight bolt on system. They assured me that it was. They did not mention cutting these fairly large tabs off. They are apparently not on the long beds. Just thought I'd post this to let the short bed 2003 owners know about this if it would be a concern to them. What is the best way to remove these tabs? (grinder, sabre saw or any other suggestions?)

 

I agree with you about cutting on a new truck. Mine is a long bed so this idea may not work. Could you unbolt the bed, block it up and slide the pieces in? I seriously considered this on mine because I didn't want to make the small v-notch in the little flang under the bed, but finally caved in and cut the notch. I was running out of time to get the hitch installed. I used a sawsall with a metal cutting blade and sliced through it very easily.

Good luck and once the hitch is installed the pain of cutting on your new baby isn't so bad.

 

If the tabs are as you say (serve no purpose), and I'm sure B&W confirmed that they served no purpose before printing that in their instructions, then I wouldn't hesitate to cut the tabs. A sawzall with a metal cutting blade should do the trick...

 

I personally have probably cut 100 of those dumb little tabs off. It is only required on the shortbeds and not the longbeds. I use an air chisel and pop em right off in about 20 seconds. There is no harm done to the truck. Don't worry, you are getting the best gooseneck hitch money can buy. Just cut the tabs and don't worry about it. Don't make a mountain out of a molehill.

 

Cut the wire - - just cut it. ;D ;D ;D

 

Hey Luke,

Have you ever experienced exsesive front to back movement in the hitch? I have always noticed a feeling of something giving or bending when taking off with my 40' trailer. I had always thought it was in in the goosneck slider. Well today I pulled the trailer and the things was bucking from front to back really bad on some bumpy roads, to where you had to let off the gas to get it to stop. I just noticed when rehooking the trailer that the hole in the bed, and the back side of the ball, is bent where it has been flexing back far enough to hit it. Maybe this is where all this is coming from? The hitch plate flexing?

 

Have you checked to make sure that all of the bolts are tight??

 

I did a quick "visual" inpection and can't see where anything has noticably moved or is loose. I have to get under their with a wrench when I get a chance.

 

Man, that is hard to believe. I have had the B&W hitch right at its maximum capacity of 30,000 lbs before with no movement what so ever. Check your bolt's. I cant imagine your hitch is moving because of the pegs that go into your frame fit really snug. Take a close look at those and see if they look like they have been moving. I cant imagine the center section would flex, that sucker is made for battle. One of my best customers who is in the pipeline busuness has 5 2003 3500 duallys and he told me he weighed one of them loaded the other day with one of their 45' goosenecks and he was at 43,500 GCWR!!! he is running a truck that weighs about 9,000lbs. So he had 34,500 on his B&W and he said it never gave him a seconds trouble.

 

The pegs aren't moving that it for sure, the center has to be flexing I am guessing. I thinking it is not the fault of the hitch but give somewhere in the trailer that is translating to the hitch and flexing it possibly. I will get the bolts check out in the next couple of days.

 

Does your trailer have a round tube coupler or a square tube coupler? I have seen a lot of trailers with the square tube coupler that have a bunch of play and that could be the case???

 

It does have the square and that is another thing that I have been looking at. It has a lock pin like the jack extensions do, plus the bolt on the front and back that you tighten up to take out the play. I got them really tight, when I got the trailer neither had been tightened at it was really bad then.

 

The center section shouldn't have any noticable flexing REGARDLESS of how much play is in the trailer. That thing shouldn't budge. If it is....there's something wrong in the hitch.

 

MUDDER, what is the trailer rated for, I know you hual two heavey dodges on it? also is your trailer bridged? look for wear in the coupler, if nothing look for fatigue at all major welds. And to the guy thats "troubled" over cutting the tab...please it's just a truck, get over it!

 

The trailer is rated for 24,000#. It scales out at 30,000 GCVW, 18,000# on the trailer axles. It is not overloaded, acually it pull great with that load on it, it is empty and light loads that are the worse.

I started another tread on this earlier and didn't get much of a response, it has more info on the trailer.

http://www.dodge-diesel.org/yabbse/i...threadid=18053

Oh ya I check out the hitch and everything is tight, it might not even have been the hitch that moved, the bed could have shifted some when bucking also.