1st Gen. Ram - All Topics Discussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.

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Old 09-20-2017, 06:20 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Raziel

Another question -

Do i need an in tank or inline fuel pump in my system or is the engine's lift pump capable of sucking fuel to the engine? The fuel tank in the car is rotted and rusty and i'm looking to replace it but i wasnt sure if i'd need an external pump or not.
1st Gen engines use the mechanical lift pump mounted on the side of the block to feed the rotary pump,

Do not forget the engine also needs a fuel return to the tank.

Jim
Old 09-20-2017, 08:26 AM
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I know about the return and lift pump. im wondering how fuel gets to the lift pump. can it suck it from the gas tank? or does it need a pump at the tank
Old 09-20-2017, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Raziel
I know about the return and lift pump. im wondering how fuel gets to the lift pump. can it suck it from the gas tank? or does it need a pump at the tank
It sucks it, no issues so keep it that way.

Simple is good unless you are making a bazillion HP.
Old 09-20-2017, 09:20 AM
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ok. Thanks. so no need for a fuel pump near the tank correct?
Old 09-20-2017, 01:43 PM
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Correct, just the factory lift pump is fine.
Old 09-21-2017, 10:19 AM
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Thank you guys so much.
Old 09-21-2017, 10:55 AM
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So after I reinstalled everything the engine doesn't want to turn over off the fuel pump bolt anymore. It spun fine when I had the injectors out as well.think it's just compression?
Old 09-21-2017, 02:37 PM
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I usually spin them over using a socket on the harmonic balancer. if they turn over easily
Or I put two bolts into the rear of the crank and use a pry bar wedged between them...Or I install the adapter plate, flex plate or flywheel and then use a barring tool.
Old 09-21-2017, 04:59 PM
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Don't use the nut on the IP to turn the motor.....that is not a very big thread on that tapered shaft and you could end up snapping it off! As Oliver suggested the crank bolts are a better choice....that is what I use.
Old 09-21-2017, 06:21 PM
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Yeah i stopped using the IP bolt.. im worried about breaking the crank bolts in the crank lol.. had to easy out 2 bolts in the head from the previous owner(s)
Old 09-21-2017, 07:01 PM
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The crank bolts hold all the power the motor makes as it send it to the flex plate or flywheel...

If you want to be really safe use the barring tool as I described earlier.
Old 09-21-2017, 07:41 PM
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Would this turbo be too big for a 1st gen with non-ic injectors?

it's kinda huge and i want it haha
i can get it cheap but i'd need to find a rebuild kit somewhere..




Old 09-22-2017, 01:27 AM
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You might be able to make that work with a set of twins??? But to be driven straight off the manifold you'd be far worse off then a factory 18 or 21cm housing.
Old 09-22-2017, 09:07 AM
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Is there a smaller starter than stock? im having a minor clearance issue, i could solve it with some fab work but if there's options im game for that.
Old 09-22-2017, 12:18 PM
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Alright. Please ignore the gold.. im not here for help with that.. i know it's tacky but i dig it.



Got some pics for some identification..








1- is that my PS pump with no vacuum pump on it? i can't find a nipple for the vacuum.

2- any idea whats up with that alternator? It came off of a grumman with 2 batteries so maybe it's heavy duty.

3- my tensioner is next to the alternator.. i see most engines with it below the alternator. Any idea whats up with that ****?

4 - my huge starter.. are there any smaller starters out there? it's gigantic. i can make it work but im having clearance issues.. Small things.


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