Raziel

Hello everyone, first post here. Long time lurker though.

I have a few general questions regarding a build im doing centered around a 1st gen cummins engine.

1: How wide is the block where the engine mounts are? I found an engine in a bread truck but need this measurement before i pull it for the project. A rough measurement gave me about 12-13" but i need something more precise for the motor mounts im making.

2: Project is going to be 2WD. Does a 2nd gen flywheel/clutch bolt up to a 1st gen crank?

3: I'm going manual trans. The NV4500 is what im going for, any worries there? The engine i found is mated to a 727 which would be horrible for me. Does the bellhousing match the block of a 1st gen? Will I need anything different, (starter?)

4: I have access to a VE pumped engine and i found fuel pump mods to give me enough power to make me happy for a long time. I also found a P7100 pump on a ford 7.8 sitting in the same yard I can get for $200. it's bolted to the passenger side of the engine though, Any issues there or is it capable of mounting on both sides? Could I remove the timing gear with a 3 jaw puller or does it need heat?

5: I could buy it if i wanted to swap pumps in the future, knowing i'd need the timing gear (which is in the 7.8 I believe) a timing cover and some other things. But I also found out the head casting for the injectors is smaller in the 1st gen than 2nd gen? Would that limit the injectors I could use in the future or are there adapters to run 2nd gen aftermarket injectors on 1st gen heads?

6: what is required to run the starter on 12 volts instead of the 24 volts? if anything?

7: When considering upgrades in the future, (after all gauges installed of course ) it's better to increase airflow before fuel, correct?

sooty

I just purchased a rolling chassis, the frame holes are 20" apart, engine has bracket holding rubber mount, as im remembering the 727 and getrag use the same adapter, if you go 2nd gen you need adapter, flywheel, starter, everything 2nd gen will bolt to 1st gen block. ive got three 4500's, one is all 2nd gen, my early truck has the advance adapter bell housing and uses all the early parts. ve pumps are WAY easier to work on, p-pumps are good for more power. never seen a passenger side pump, probably a lot harder to find anything. for performance, check the stickys.

Raziel

Thank you! Im talking about the mounting holes on the block. How wide is the engine block between the pan and the head?

As for the VE pump, would it be difficult to achieve 300hp? i can get a ve pump cummins really easily right now for cheap...

Thanks for everything else!

sooty

it looks like 10" between holes

mknittle

300 HP is pretty easy turbo, fuel pin ,governor spring and injectors (depending on the year of the engine.) plus the free pump mods.

forgot 4" exhaust

mknittle

early first gen 89-91 not intercooled use bigger injectors than the later first gens. some say good to 400HP.( anything over 300-325 becomes moer work and parts to achieve. 300 or so HP is a good number for a daily driver.

Raziel

Help please.

What line is this? Mine got slightly flattened during the engine pull out...

Raziel

Goes to a banjo on the block+

edwinsmith

It's the main fuel line from the fuel filter to the Injection pump. If it got flattened it should be replaced to keep from restricting flow.

Raziel

Is it high pressure?

edwinsmith

Around 15 psi or less depending on the type and condition of your lift pump.

Raziel

Alrighty. thank you so much!

Raziel

Bump new ****!
I bought the motor but the turbo was siezed up tighter than a nun's *******.

I was wondering how detrimental it would be or how it would run to run a smaller than stock turbo for a little bit just to get it on the road until i can buy a proper turbo?

mknittle

It may be able to be rebuilt if the shaft isn't ruined.

Raziel

The housing shattered as well.