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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
Developed a gear oil leak on my NV4500 yesterday. Pulled the tail housing between the trans and transfer case for inspection. Man, was I let down as my suspicions were right.... the notorious Dodge crack. Looks like I’ll be ordering a new cast iron unit from Quad 4x4.
Developed a gear oil leak on my NV4500 yesterday. Pulled the tail housing between the trans and transfer case for inspection. Man, was I let down as my suspicions were right.... the notorious Dodge crack. Looks like I’ll be ordering a new cast iron unit from Quad 4x4.
I heard that the red Chinese ones are machined wrong and that the black ones from Quad are machined properly. There’s about $150 US difference in price. For today, I’m drilling and tapping the end of the crack, V-ing it down and putting some alumaweld on it. Mapp gas is in hand as we speak.
I wrote up a thread when I did mine....Mark (Mknittle) has his own thread as well I believe....or maybe it's in his regular build thread. Mark even built a cheap and easy tool (which I copied. ) to pop the push rod out without damage to the main shaft.
Thank you very much. Very good write up. I've heard that tab in the mounting plate referred to as an antirotation tab but that is not the case. It simply locates and orients the unit so the master cylinder is in the correct position. If you could tighten the nut that hold the booster to the plate in the vehicle it wouldn't even matter.
I don't plan on pulling the pushrod from the pedal to the booster. It has to be shortened anyway so I'm just going to cut it.
I heard that the red Chinese ones are machined wrong and that the black ones from Quad are machined properly. There’s about $150 US difference in price. For today, I’m drilling and tapping the end of the crack, V-ing it down and putting some alumaweld on it. Mapp gas is in hand as we speak.
I can't recall which one I got...probably a china machined one. But it's done fine for over 50K miles so far.
I can't recall which one I got...probably a china machined one. But it's done fine for over 50K miles so far.
I think that the Chinese have the capability to make a product of super good quality or the exact opposite. I think that they make the parts how ever the customer wants them based on how much they charge. I am not defending the crap that they make, just that that is what the customer wants...Mark
When my fuel tank gets down to below 1/2 on the gauge the truck starts getting hard to start like it's losing it's prime. After cranking a while it will finally catch and run fine after that.
After I filled it up the other day and then sitting for 3 days it starts fine and runs fine?
Does that sound like air getting into the fuel line somewhere? I need to figure out a way to pressurize the tank to see if I can find the leak.
When my fuel tank gets down to below 1/2 on the gauge the truck starts getting hard to start like it's losing it's prime. After cranking a while it will finally catch and run fine after that.
After I filled it up the other day and then sitting for 3 days it starts fine and runs fine?
Does that sound like air getting into the fuel line somewhere? I need to figure out a way to pressurize the tank to see if I can find the leak.
Edwin
Sounds to me like a crack or pin hole in the pickup tube, inside the tank.
-Shaggy
I have had that same sort of problem Edwin with my truck and it ended up a loose hose clamp.
But yes it sounds like you have an air leak in the system somewhere from the fuel tank to the IP.
On Friday, I installed replacement clutch and brake pedals that I got from Holy Performance. They are quality pieces! BJ McClure is the man behind Holy Performance. He makes new pedal sets and replacement pads. He incorporates brass bushings to take the place of the OEM and replacement plastic bushings in the pivot tubes. On top of that, BJ adds zerk fittings to the pivot tube which gives the opportunity for adding grease to the pivot shaft and bushings. He also supplies new retainer clips and a bushing for the clutch linkage. The bushing for the clutch linkage is an OEM replacement so it's only plastic. I'd like to find a brass bushing to replace it as well.
I found the clutch master cylinder rod eye was worn considerably as was the pin on the clutch pedal linkage. Since the pedals were new, so was the pin on the clutch pedal. But I did remove the rod from the master cylinder and made repairs to it. Now, there's no slop in the clutch pedal at all and it rests at the same height as the brake pedal. I'm going to post a thread with pictures about removing the rod from the clutch master cylinder.
On Friday, I installed replacement clutch and brake pedals that I got from Holy Performance. They are quality pieces! BJ McClure is the man behind Holy Performance. He makes new pedal sets and replacement pads. He incorporates brass bushings to take the place of the OEM and replacement plastic bushings in the pivot tubes. On top of that, BJ adds zerk fittings to the pivot tube which gives the opportunity for adding grease to the pivot shaft and bushings. He also supplies new retainer clips and a bushing for the clutch linkage. The bushing for the clutch linkage is an OEM replacement so it's only plastic. I'd like to find a brass bushing to replace it as well.
I found the clutch master cylinder rod eye was worn considerably as was the pin on the clutch pedal linkage. Since the pedals were new, so was the pin on the clutch pedal. But I did remove the rod from the master cylinder and made repairs to it. Now, there's no slop in the clutch pedal at all and it rests at the same height as the brake pedal. I'm going to post a thread with pictures about removing the rod from the clutch master cylinder.
That is pretty slick! If I ever get a 5 speed back in the truck I might have to go that route.
On Friday, I installed replacement clutch and brake pedals that I got from Holy Performance. They are quality pieces! BJ McClure is the man behind Holy Performance. He makes new pedal sets and replacement pads. He incorporates brass bushings to take the place of the OEM and replacement plastic bushings in the pivot tubes. On top of that, BJ adds zerk fittings to the pivot tube which gives the opportunity for adding grease to the pivot shaft and bushings. He also supplies new retainer clips and a bushing for the clutch linkage. The bushing for the clutch linkage is an OEM replacement so it's only plastic. I'd like to find a brass bushing to replace it as well.
I found the clutch master cylinder rod eye was worn considerably as was the pin on the clutch pedal linkage. Since the pedals were new, so was the pin on the clutch pedal. But I did remove the rod from the master cylinder and made repairs to it. Now, there's no slop in the clutch pedal at all and it rests at the same height as the brake pedal. I'm going to post a thread with pictures about removing the rod from the clutch master cylinder.
Website ?
All I come up with is Holley Carburetor performance websites.
When my fuel tank gets down to below 1/2 on the gauge the truck starts getting hard to start like it's losing it's prime. After cranking a while it will finally catch and run fine after that.
After I filled it up the other day and then sitting for 3 days it starts fine and runs fine?
Does that sound like air getting into the fuel line somewhere? I need to figure out a way to pressurize the tank to see if I can find the leak.
Edwin
I run into this issue EVERY winter. When I have my plow on, and the tank gets about 1/2 full, the truck sucks air from somewhere, and I wind up stranded on the side of the road until I get it bled and back to filled up. The fuel filter comes off dried out. Put fuel in it, pump it up, crack the bleeders, and spin it over. Starts right back up again.
I don't let it get below 1/2 anymore, as I do believe that the cold weather, and a fine crack exist in the fuel pickup in the tank... or as Ollie said along the ride back up to the LP.
Someday, I'll pressurize the tank with compressed air and find it.
I'll include the following info in my recent thread.
BJ is very active in some of the truck groups on Facebook but at the moment doesn't have a website. I don't know if he has any plans of doing so. As of now, for customers outside of Facebook, he prefers contact via email and can be reached at holyperformancecenter@gmail.com.
He makes a variety of other small parts as well. Custom, carbon-fiber gauge pods similar to the old Banks 3-gauge pod that attaches to the dash above the message center, cab clearance light gaskets, brake and clutch pedal pads and cargo light gaskets are a few I can think of at the moment.
I don't know if it's my place to share much but his son suffers from a severe disease and he's doing what he can to raise money for all the treatment he has to go through. BJ is a good ol' boy. Very humble, down to earth. Good guy to talk to. He's also a (current or veteran?) serviceman.
04-15-2018, 03:48 PM
) to pop the push rod out without damage to the main shaft.
