Low idle after ve pump seal replacement
Low idle after ve pump seal replacement
Hello, I pulled off the top of my ve pump to replace the fuel pin seal and after reinstalling the top the truck idles low. I removed and reinstalled the top several more times with the same results. Is there anything I could have done wrong to cause this?
I've played with the throttle plate, setting at a neutral position per a overhaul shop's directions, moving it a spline causes the truck to idle way to high even with the stop bottomed out. The previous owner had done some adjustments to add more power like rotating the cone and turning in the fuel, I don't know if the spring is the original. I don't need the power and don't care for the smoke so I rotated the cone back to factory, and backed the fuel stop out a couple turns guessing at what factory might be. Is there a thread count to be sure I didn't go to far back?
In your number 5 post you say you rotated the cone back to stock and you turned the fuel stop out a couple of turns, if by fuel stop you mean the full power screw yes it will definitely change your idle by slowing it down, just re adjust your idle screw to get it back to about 700 rpms, at least that is what works for me. btw is it a stick or an auto truck if it's a stick and you turn your full power screw back out to far it will not take off very well.
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Thanks for the replies. It's a stick, and I have been having problems starting out even with the idle stop turned up. I don't have a rpm gauge so I can only guess at the speed, but at what sounds about correct idle it runs rough. With a little more throttle she evens out but sounds to fast to my ear. I've wondered about the full power screw, but haven't noticed a lack of power on the road, with no towing, I assumed that the screw only affected upper limits not idle fuel. Sounds like it might be the culprit.
Tuning the ve pump is not an exact science but leaving the cone turned to the deep side then raising the smoke screw all the way up to flush on the inside of the cap then adjust your star wheel, ( it's number 5 in the diagram) I usually start out with it up 2 turns from the bottom. when you get it correct you should only have a slight haze at moderate throttle and if you mash it about a 2 second burst of black that will clean up as your turbo spools up. I would also turn the power screw back in 1/2 to 1 turn, remember any time you change the setting on the power screw it will change the idle. the stickies on the main page under performance has a wealth of info on tuning your pump just remember to write down where all of your adjustments are and then document every change you do for future reference
Tuning the ve pump is not an exact science but leaving the cone turned to the deep side then raising the smoke screw all the way up to flush on the inside of the cap then adjust your star wheel, ( it's number 5 in the diagram) I usually start out with it up 2 turns from the bottom. when you get it correct you should only have a slight haze at moderate throttle and if you mash it about a 2 second burst of black that will clean up as your turbo spools up. I would also turn the power screw back in 1/2 to 1 turn, remember any time you change the setting on the power screw it will change the idle. the stickies on the main page under performance has a wealth of info on tuning your pump just remember to write down where all of your adjustments are and then document every change you do for future reference
Safety first
I have never messed with the inerds of the VE, but I slept in a Holiday Inn Las,,, oops wrong forum. What I mean to say is that you should pull the air tube off of the turbo and have a stout plank ready in case she runs away. That is what my ex-wife did, but the plank didn't stop her. If your rig runs away and you have no way to kill the motor, it can scrap itself in seconds...Mark
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