Last year I added a #10 plate and gauges and this year I added a 4" MBRP system. When I tow over 6000 I can really feel the slipping in the transmission when I pull out, but on the highway after it locks up I have no problem. My 12v has 58,000 original miles (yes you read that right, it's just getting broken in!). I'd like to add more power, probably not more than about 300hp/700tq. Obviously I need a new torque converter, but what else is essential at that power level? I've looked at the built transmission's from goerend and ATS and they look awesome, but I'd have to get it shipped and ship the core back and that just seems too expensive. Is it possible to just do the tc and valve body or is it neccessary to redo the transmission internals as well? I really don't know much about transmissions except what i've read online, and this is one project i'm gonna find someone else to do for me. Thanks

 

It may have been possible at one point but now that you have slipped the clutches they need to replaced as well. Do it right, the power a built trans puts to the ground is night and day in difference.

 

I would look for the small billet parts, a general rebuild kit ($500), and a new solenoid.

47RE 48RE COMPLETE UPDATED SOLENOID SET
47RH 47RE 48RE 4140 Heat Treated Billet 4.2 Ratio Band Lever
47RH 47RE 48RE Billet 2nd Gear Intermediate Servo
47RH 47RE 48RE Billet Accumalator Housing
47RH 47RE 48RE BILLET INTERMEDIATE BAND STRUT

Also, get a Mag Hytec double deep trans pan. Towing in the mountains with our 14' tool trailer it never went above 125. Cruising around town its 150-60, but as soon as it gets some air flow on the highway it drops 40 degrees quick.

 

hi
a transgo-tfod diesel valve body kit will do wonders for increasing life and reduce heat and slipping .
302,000 and shifts perfect !

 

So basically a torque converter, valve body, and rebuild kit would make a pretty strong set up? Do I need a billet input at those power levels? I do want to do it right the first time but also want to save money where possible. Is it smart to mix brands with this stuff, for example an ATS tc and a BD valve body, or are they designed to work best together. Thanks

 

Make sure you change out the aluminum pressure regulator piston for a steal one. I lost three transmissions in a row due to this and some manufacturers now put them in all rebuilds. I guess I was one of the Guinea pigs for this very expensive lesson. Not all of them have an issue just some.

I don't remember the exact name of the part. so if I wrong I apologize in advance.

 

What did you guys see as far as MPG after you did your trans? I'm guessing a built trans would be more efficient and give you better mileage?

 

If you're going to rebuild it yourself, send me a message and I'll send you a link to some great inexpensive transmission upgrades you should do while you're in there.

If you just want to buy a few essential parts and slap them in there:
1. Transgo shift kit or buy an aftermarket valve body$110 to $700.
2. 4.2 ratio lever, heavy duty strut, and billet anchor $100 total.
3. Sonnax Second (intermediate) servo cover $25, or just spend the $70 and buy a new complete aftermarket servo.
4. Lower stall torque converter, billet cover single friction if looking at 500 HP or less $350 to $1000.
5. Billet input shaft $650 to $800 if you tow heavy or plan on lots of drag racing or boosted launches, if you're less than 400 HP, 9 out of 10 times you'll be fine with stock.
6. If you decide you need a triple disk torque converter $800 to $1400, you will want to buy an upgraded flex plate and do the billet input shaft.

 

So your saying the best thang for a 47RE is to have the transmission built with billet parts?

 

This thread is 8 years old....but my advice is find a set of nv5600 internals, then pull your 47re, locate an nv5600 case and bellhousing. Install internals in case and place in where 47re came out. find a clutch assembly and install that....problem solved.