I had the same problem with my FASS and all I did to fix it was to take the brushes out turn them around and put them back in. I have to say I was pretty ****** when my $600 pump wasn't working. Meatball, if you are losing prime in your system you have a leak. I also had this problem when I first installed my system. My leak was the 90 that goes into the injector pump. Goodluck, Eric

 

The brushes are your problem. I have replaced many a set when i was working for a dealer that carried them. Heck...i still work on them! hahaha.....For what its worth....usually after you replace with a new set of brushes....you dont see any issues after that point....in most cases.....

I would defiantly make sure that you have a good ground on the harness and the FASS. Run an extra strap if you have too. This is cheap insurance on keeping your fuel pressure.

As for the caps in the motor breaking....you can dob them up with some silicone to seal them if they crack...but only if the insert will still seat. If the insert pulls out.....its gone too far....new motor. JUST be VERY careful when tightening up the inserts....its not hard to over torque them!!! i have doen it when not tiring to! They also have an updated plug as well.....its more of a mushroom that covers the cap and such and seals with an o-ring. Should be a free upgrade if you sent in your WNTY card and are on file with DPP. (Fill out the cards and send them in! They do keep them on file and they do referance them for any wnty claims!!!!! No card, No wnty!!) There is a Bunna Ball Upgrade as well that helps with repriming after a filter change...but there is a SN brake for that.

One other thing i have seen in the FASS is the rotor and housing interfere and cause drag, overheating the motor and it shuts down. Its not hard to inspect on the FASS or the HPFP. This issue is caused by undue pressure perpendicular to the position of the motor. In other words, the hold down strap that holds the motor is pulling on the motor and causing the rotor to rub on the housing. You can pull the motor and look at the rotor and see if you have any ware. You can file it down with some emery cloth and reassemble. (HPFP watch for spring and ball!!! they will fall out!) you can only put it back one way....they have a locater pin in the housing. Tighten up the housing and then tighten up the strap that hold the motor (Go to DPP's web page and look at the install directions for the HPFP. You have to do this step when installing the HPFP or improper motor alignment will occur.)

Just some suggestions........good to see that Brad finaly started using the Brushless motors.....

 

They should.

 

Diesel Dan,

When did FASS start with these changes like the brushless motor and the mushroom caps with o-rings. Just wondering if I have to keep an eye out for these problems or not.

Thanks

 

The brushless motors from what i gather, a few months ago.....just baised on the last post that i saw. Brad was talking about doing that about 10 months ago when i talked to him. I brought up all the issues and he is aware of all of them! BUT he is working as hard as he can to fix them...he is a good guy...just hard to get a hold of! haha...

As for the caps....they have been out for a while. They started implementing them on all new FASS systems. SO you would need to refer to your SN# and see if your Unit is up for any Upgrades. These should be covered under wnty.

 

Mine has caps & o-rings....Dan installed it for me on 10/22/04, so was mfg before that.....SN#8620, if that helps any.
RJ

 

I got mine this summer so I probably have the new caps. What upgrades are you talking about? Just the caps or are there other things that can be upgraded?

 

Other upgrades = Brushless Motors.

 

I installed my Fass about 2 years ago or 80000miles. I only had to replace one fuel filter since the install. Everything has worked well and I still have 16 psi of pressure at idle and about 12psi at wot. I keep blowing my fuse to ecm as I had an orginal Fass that connect to the life pump wire. Using the original lift pump wire harness, the start voltage is about 12 volts and drops to 10volts using the original lift pump wire once the truck starts. With the relay, I have 12 volts all the time. I wore out three stock lift pumps in about 2 years. I'm still on my original Fass pump.