would it be possible to drill and tap a hole into the piping just before the intake horn and put the boost gauge sensor there? and would i need to weld a bung if it was to thin of pipe?

 

I would just buy a boost bolt and install it in place of one of the bolts on top of the intake plate and run the boost line up to the firewall and put a T in it and run one to the snow controller and one to your guage.

 

It's very easy to thread an NPT fitting into the aluminum intake - we've done it on the tailgate at events in just a few minutes...

 

as what bjans said use the boost bolt and split it.

 

xlr8tr i have the plastic cfm intake it only has three holes

 

How thick is it?

 

im not sure it has three pre drilled and tapped holes but they are reinforced and i dont think it would be possible to tap into it. i was thinking i dont know if i need 2 nozzles. what do you think

 

You need those other two threaded ports if you want to have more than a single stage of water/meth... why don't you just Tee off of the remaining port for the boost gauge & Hobbs switch?

 

Two 625 nozzles here. Not too much, by any means.

Dynos up to 60 hp ...depending how you mix your fluid and how you set up injection pump.
Probably around 40 hp with 20% washer fluid and full pump pressure

RJ

 

why don't you use the boost test port on the driver side of the motor for your boost gauge or for the feed back for the meth the test port is 3/4 but you could size it down

 

I put my meth kit on two months ago and the pump quit working already. I haven't found a break in the wires to bad connections. What would cause this?

 

are you running the pump dry? that will make the pump go out faster.

 

NO not at all, it worked fine then just quit working.

 

Hot wire pump to battery....see if it's your wiring (something loose) or really is the pump!

RJ