I finally figured out the best keyed power source for my Pyro and trans guages last night, so they are working now. First thing I have to say is that while Cummins may say that cooldown isn't terribly necessary for a stock truck without a load (I read that on another thread here as coming straight from Cummins), but I saw the light last night! When I got to work, turned off the main highway, unloaded, doing ~60mph onto the street to the plant. Not much more than 1200 rpm's for about 1 1/2 miles, then Idle another 1/4 mile or better to the parking lot. EGT's hung around 450 deg. for a long time, slowly worked down to 300 after about 3 minutes! I had been idling in to park and shutting down about 1 minute later before the guage!!! Hope I haven't been roasting the turbo too much! Who knows how bad the previous owner roasted it without guages.

I am a converted believer, and absolutely love my new IssPRO EV pre-turbo Pyro!!! T-cop is in the rear channel of the exhaust manifold for cyl. 4, 5, & 6, about 3/4" to 1" behind the flange.

 

You would also love the Isspro Turbo Temp Monitor.

 

Most turbo problems on vehicles are because of hot shut down leading to bearing failure. So I hear.



Would have loved mine too but couldnt get the darn thing to work without sending off dash lights, warning chimes, and especially not allowing the alarm to engage untill I locked the truck again AFTER the truck shut off. Sent it back for a refund.

 

In the 3 years/70k miles I've driven my truck, I've never waited for it to cool down. A year of this was at 35 psi several times a day. I'm not a lightfooted driver either. Turbo still spins freely and I can honestly say that I'm not worried about anything happening to it for another 6/70K.

 

Joshua, check out the cool down timers, I use mine and have been very pleased with it. You are doing the right think by letting it cool down and when in a rush the cool timer will help.Howards Turbo Cool-Down Timer sold here in the store is the one I have and it has given not a hint of trouble and the guy is great to deal with.. Goodluck,,Rick

 

I highly doubt with a diesel that you can coke the center bearing without driving the snot out of it and shutting it off immediately. Basically it has to get the oil so hot that it turns into a solid, eventually the inside of the line or passage in center bearing gets smaller and smaller until it causes the bearing to fail. I try the best in my talon to let the EGTs to hit about 1000*F before shutting it off (may take several minutes), but in the Benz I give it about 5 seconds or less unless I just got off the expressway as the diesel runs so much cooler.

I want a turbo timer just because I hate shutting my vehicles off just to make a quick stop in at the store and start it up again. With either a remote start or a turbo timer I could just leave it running without the keys in it, if somebody tried driving off as soon as they hit the clutch it'd shut off.

 

If it's taking three minutes to get down to 300° after moderate driving I'd say your pyro isn't reading right. Remember they are only accurate in the middle of their range.
Unless I'm towing I just shut it down immediately. With over 400k combined miles everything's working fine for me.
There was a poll on TDR a while back with several hundred replies where not one single person reported oil related turbo damage.
You're certainly not going to hurt anything by cooling down but personally I have better things to do than waste my time sitting around idling.

 

Most good EGT probes are fairly accurate in lower temperatures as well, I end up driving my talon a bit in the winter. When it is really cold out the EGT won't even move off of 0*F, when it is really hot out it'll be right around 100*F. It is also fast enough that when I take my heatshield off I can actually watch the manifold runner heat up and cool down with every fire of the #4 cylinder on my car.

Turbo (whether Garrett or KKK) failure on the Mercedes diesels is also very, very rare regardless of cooldown time.

 

I have to agree with Infidel. Your probe may be reading a bit hot. Are you sure the tip of the probe is in the middle of the exhaust stream and not touching the bottom of the manifold??

 

Guaranteed. I made up a guage spacer before inserting the probe. I removed the turbo before drilling, stuffed a rag inside the manifold, then started the truck for a second to blow out any errant chips I may have left behind. I was careful to drill in the middle of the runner, ~1" back from the flange. The guage I made rests the ip at the half-way point in the runner (top to bottom) and I snugged down the compression fitting pretty good.

When cruising I rarely get above 900 deg, even on some longer hills. If I get on it from a dead stop, I can just edge into the yellow - 1000. I haven't towed anything yet so I don't know how the EGT's are that way yet. Guage is very responsive, runs up and down with the accelerator pretty well. Just takes a long time to cool from ~375 down to 300.

Going to try plumbing in the trans. temp. sender tonight, and hopefully the wheel shims. They are calling for t-storms, though. At least then I will see how the new tires are in the rain

 

[The Cummins B series engines used by Dodge have a tendency to run a bit hot in the turbo bearings and housing when they are worked with high speed running or pulling a load, and will create coke deposits that can (and absolutely do) plug the piston oilers as they shake loose and get stuck in the oiler jets. That is not a fault of Cummins, but a driver created situation from failure to exercise a cool down cycle after pulling or running hard, AND it is something to consider when purchasing oil.}

{Dyno oil will coke faster and at much lower temperatures than good synthetics. So synthetic oils will allow sloppy driving and poor shutdown practices that dyno oil simply will not.
When I was still running a fleet, and had a lot of low skilled drivers, I always used synthetic oils so I would not have the coking and piston burnout problems from drivers shutting down without a cooling down cycle. All it takes is one piston to score the cylinder wall from overheating the crown (plugged piston oiler) to pay for a whole lot of synthetic oil.]
I like this explanation of cooldown, it is not just about turbo bearings!!! Goodluck,,,Rick

 

I have to agree with BIGBLUE. I run the crap out of mine everyday. All the bad things people on here say not to do, I do. I live one mile off the highway to my house on a nice straight narrow county road. Sometimes my neighbors cheer me on when I come by at around 120 mph. I hit 40 plus psi boost 1450 egt, & pull up in the yard & shut it off. I have did this for 5 years & still have the same old HX35 with waste gate welded shut. I guess me & BLUE just got the good ones. That sucker may blow up in the morning, then I will just put a b1 bomber on it.

 

Threat it like hell and it'll last forever, baby it and have problems.

Seems that people fail to recognize the B series engine was originally designed for agricultural use in export to third world countries where poor maintenance, operation, oil and fuels are the norm.

I treat mine like the work trucks they are and never have a problem

 

I love riding her hard and putting her up wet (or hot in this case).

 

I know the truck has been worked before I bought it, and I plan to work it also, but I don't want to spend oodles of money on repairs, either. I am very satisfied with this truck! Runs like its being chased and uses less fuel than my V-10. Gotta Love That!!! Hooked up the Tranny temp guage. Haven't crossed the 180 deg. mark on it! Even spent lots of time in town, ramping up and down. Granted, not under load or trying much reverse, but made me happy!