I have ordered the Chrysler transmission line and should be able to pick it up tomorrow. Before I install, does any one have any tips or suggestions?
Looking forward to having the trans gauge read instead of just staying pinned at the bottom.
Cheers from the west coast.
Alan

 

If you dont mind me asking, How much did ya pay for that line? And it is a complete factory replacement. Meaning no cutting and splicing. The previous owner of my truck for some reason cut and splicing both lines. Not sure why.

 

Probably because they rubbed and caused a hole in one of them.was there padding there too?I had to do that to mine twice on my 12v.And the guy who had it before me lost an entire tranny because of the same thing.It seems like a prblem with these trucks.I have a pad in betweeen mine now so they dont run through.

 

The list price is $210 Can, I called around and got the part for $185. I am going this afternoon to pick it up. The Chrysler part # 5011244AA is for installing a temp probe for my '99. I am replacing the part to provide a hot source for tranny temp, not as a result of any type of failure. I called DTT and they also suggest a steel braided part that I guess replaced a rubber portion of the stock line. The cost for that part from DTT is about $58.
Cheers
Alan

 

Sorry to break it to you Alan but unless your gauge reads to 100F it will likely stay pinned to the bottom no matter where you put the sender unless you're stuck in stop and go with the A/C on or towing.
This is especially true if most of your driving is at highway speeds, when the TC locks up very little heat is generated. My AT gauge reads down to 0F and even with the 95° weather we've had recently hasn't topped 140°

The trade is straight forward, you will lose about 4 quarts of ATF though.
The stock line has a 3/8" pipe thread sensor port, you will need a bushing to get it down to the thread size of your sender, usually 1/8". Hopefully your sender is long enough to be in the fluid flow or it will be slow to react. Some senders are too short and end up tucked up inside the bushing out of the fluid flow.

Use Permatex #2 or anti-seize for thread sealant, teflon tape doesn't hold up well with oils.

 

Yes.
The guy that installed mine used teflon tape, and it started leaking under 6 months later.

Kept my front driveshaft nice and rust free though.


phox

 

xxx
i am wondering which transmission cooler line you are talking about? I just replaced one of the stock rubber lines on my 1998.5 Dodge Shortbed and the darn thing still has a leak to it. Are we talking about the same line or is yours the all metal line? Just courius, the dripping drives me nuts.

AFDan52



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1998.5 Dodge 2500 Quadcab Shortbed with Shell and Chrome Nerf bars, Still pretty much stock and runs great 158000 miles. Dodge Red

 

I was talking about the metal line, driver's side of the tranny.

 

Thanks, By any chance would any of you have any idea why a brand new line would have a leak right away? I removed the line once to make sure that the seal was still in place . But even after a couple of weeks of normal driving back and forth to work , it still leaks.

 

If it's leaking from under the nut and out the threads or the hole for the tubing it could be the flare on the end of the line is bad.

I just had the wife pick up the line at my local dealership for $146.61 including the state tax. Dodgepartsonline has it for $105 plus 10% shipping.

And far as the install, I'm going to hand it to Stefan or Bill while I'm at the DTT shop and let them do it while the trans is out.

 

No offence , but you guys must all be crazy to be paying that much money for tranny lines , i had mountains of trouble blowing lines on my truck , and i finally saddled up , took a day and fixed the problem for good , double braided hydraulic lines.

Check out my write up here: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...1&page=2&pp=15

If the pictures do not work they are still in my gallery.

 

Mine cracked at the flare 2 times. The first time I just took it to the dealer ship and had them fix it for an arm and 2 toes. The second time it cracked I took it to a "tube and hose" shop and them cut off the crack and reflare it, then I had them cut a 6" section out of the aluminum line and put in a piece of rubber hose so that the aluminum pipe could "flex" and prevent from cracking again. So far so good! Oh and it cost me LESS than $7.00.

 

I did some checking and research about this Trans Cooler Line Leak. I found that there seems to a problem with cracking in the Flaring. and that it is fairly common.I fixed mine with some high temp hose and some good clamps. Works just fine, and a cheap fix.