The pictures should tell most of it:

new spring - left || stock 12v spring - right


I didn't realize the new valve springs would be ~.375" taller. The slight beehive makes them seem wider. I'm thinking they'll definately get a good workout with the new cam.

brandon.

 

Are those for a Helix cam?

 

I think they're 12v 60lb Cummins springs...right Brandon??

You have to put yours on yourself??
Chris

 

Hey Brandon those look like there good for a lot more lift before coil-bind
Is the cam your going to run have much more lift? What about open pressure?
Details man I need details
Are those F1 springs?

 

are you running different valves or trick retainers?

 

Yes, but they're the Cummins 60# part #3916691.

They do look like they'll have more lift before binding up. The wire is thicker as well. These were harder to compress than the stock springs. I don't have a specific number for the open pressure, nor a tool to measure that. I can't say on the cam, I told Don what I wanted in a cam and he said "ok, we'll do that". I don't know the specs myself.

Nope, not at this time. We'll see how they wear and make changes if required. The stock application (125k miles) the retainers and locks looked brand new with no visible wear. The first time around the head's not even ported due to an empty wallet.

brandon.

 

So you don't need beefier pushrods or anything with valve springs that size?

 

Not that I know of, these Cummins'ses are built tough from the factory. I've heard of 2 bend pushrods in the 5.9's. One was installation error (cam timed at #6 TDC instead of #1 TDC) and the other was heavy nitrous use.

brandon.

 

someone said something about trick valves and valve retainers? Later on I plan on finding a used head maybe out of a crashed cummins 12v and take my time in rebuilding it. I was plannign on making the intake valves bigger and porting the intake side, I never really gave any thought to different valves what kind to ppl use? its not like we tach to 10 grand and need stainless or higher? i could be wrong tho.

 

my point is if you install those things at stock height, aren't they gonna be pretty close to bind? obviously you're going to have more pressure, but are you going to have more distance to bind?

 

don't mess with the intake side... focus on the exhaust side!!!!!

 

That's what it was kind of seeming to me. If the wire is thicker, and the springs are taller, once compressed into the same space as the stock springs occupied, won't these be more likely to bind?
When I have seen valve spring upgrades, albeit on gassers, and they have thicker wire, to a point, then they start doubling and tripling the springs when more pressure is necessary.

Is there just that much extra room in these valve setups?

Thanks,
Chris

 

I think that's the reason for the behive shape. They're the stock size in the retainer and spring seat, but then after the first coil they start making larger circles until the middle, then back to smaller coils. When compressed, they can seat into each other. If I can find a large enough c-clamp tomorrow, I'll test where they bind- I'm curious too.

brandno.

 

why exhuast valves? wouldnt thats slow the slow my turbo down, if i do intake i can cram air in better, and more fuel.

 

Brandon, I don't think that your gonna have any coil bind with those springs. If you count the number of loops, they match the stocker. They are just stretched out more. That must be one heck of a cam, you notching the pistons? Its looks like you got one cool project going there. I'm throwing around about building a motor for my truck. I'm bored...