Setting stock wastegate on the HX35 with Rips twins
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From: Laredo
Setting stock wastegate on the HX35 with Rips twins
Simply said
im having my s400 and my hx35 rebuilt. It appears teh seals on both turbos are leaking oil and well, its makin me mad, as well as causin a huge hazard to drive around in with my pickup leakin oil...
Simply asked, with dragon fly injectors, 16.5 degrees of timing, a 100 plate full forward with a 2/3 afc, what is a good baseline to set the stock wastegate at? I requested to have it set at 24 psi..
from what i understand, the tighter the top turbo is, the hotter the truck will run on the top end, and the less work the big charger will do, the looser the top turbo is the laggier the truck will be off the line, but egts will be more in check.... again a tradeoff....
exhaust housing is a 14cm which is crossdrilled to allow all six cylinders to gate and to reduce drive pressure... other than that, the actuator is screwed, and the turbo is leakin oil thru both, the compressor and turbine side.... hence why its gettin rebuilt...
Moreso im wonderin if it is possible to simply get a boost control elbow, what in the world is it? YES i havent looked, ignorance, how does it work? and is it worth it to get it, to adjust my wastegate? Yes right now money is a problem, ive recently bought
a new transmission clutch and all
paid the mechanic for time and labor
rebuilt both turbos
so my saved money has been hit hard...
Finally can i just have my gate set to 24 psi and adjust it with the boost control elbow to fine tune my factory gate?
Thanks in advance!
Rick
im having my s400 and my hx35 rebuilt. It appears teh seals on both turbos are leaking oil and well, its makin me mad, as well as causin a huge hazard to drive around in with my pickup leakin oil...
Simply asked, with dragon fly injectors, 16.5 degrees of timing, a 100 plate full forward with a 2/3 afc, what is a good baseline to set the stock wastegate at? I requested to have it set at 24 psi..
from what i understand, the tighter the top turbo is, the hotter the truck will run on the top end, and the less work the big charger will do, the looser the top turbo is the laggier the truck will be off the line, but egts will be more in check.... again a tradeoff....
exhaust housing is a 14cm which is crossdrilled to allow all six cylinders to gate and to reduce drive pressure... other than that, the actuator is screwed, and the turbo is leakin oil thru both, the compressor and turbine side.... hence why its gettin rebuilt...
Moreso im wonderin if it is possible to simply get a boost control elbow, what in the world is it? YES i havent looked, ignorance, how does it work? and is it worth it to get it, to adjust my wastegate? Yes right now money is a problem, ive recently bought
a new transmission clutch and all
paid the mechanic for time and labor
rebuilt both turbos
so my saved money has been hit hard...
Finally can i just have my gate set to 24 psi and adjust it with the boost control elbow to fine tune my factory gate?
Thanks in advance!
Rick
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From: Big Cove Tannery, PA
I found on my setup having the gate open at 25psi works best for me. A boost elbow is just an elbow that screws into the compressor housing for your actuator pressure line to hook onto. It basically has a set screw in the elbow that lest you control how much boost the actuator sees. The one I have has a small hole drilled in it aafter the set screw to bleed of the boost pressure the more you open the screw the more boost is allowed past and opens up the actuator. I hope that makes sense. Here is one on ebay the picture isn't the greatest though it will give you a general idea what I am talking about. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODGE...spagenameZWDVW
Joe
Joe
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From: Laredo
I found on my setup having the gate open at 25psi works best for me. A boost elbow is just an elbow that screws into the compressor housing for your actuator pressure line to hook onto. It basically has a set screw in the elbow that lest you control how much boost the actuator sees. The one I have has a small hole drilled in it aafter the set screw to bleed of the boost pressure the more you open the screw the more boost is allowed past and opens up the actuator. I hope that makes sense. Here is one on ebay the picture isn't the greatest though it will give you a general idea what I am talking about. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DODGE...spagenameZWDVW
Joe
Joe
Sooo
on a set of twins, how would i hook that thing up? My HX35 has a line runnin from the back of the afc to the actuator itsself, not anything like what is pictured on that turbo.... so now im confused..
Rick
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Get one of these:
Plumb it into the line from your AFC to your wastegate.
Have them set your wastegate to the original OEM spec (around 18-20psi) and use this boost controller to raise it if you feel the need to.
As a rule, I'd suggest gating the top charger as low as you can and still light off the big turbo. This means, your big turbo has to already by making 2-5psi in the cold pipe before your total boost is 20psi in the case of setting the wastegate at 20psi.
The farther apart your turbos are in size (spoolup, actually) the higher you'll need to set the wastegate.
Ideally, you'd have your big charger making at least 5psi before your total boost passes 25psi or so. This will allow you to gate that top charger at a lower level and still get the response you want and need.
Plumb it into the line from your AFC to your wastegate.
Have them set your wastegate to the original OEM spec (around 18-20psi) and use this boost controller to raise it if you feel the need to.
As a rule, I'd suggest gating the top charger as low as you can and still light off the big turbo. This means, your big turbo has to already by making 2-5psi in the cold pipe before your total boost is 20psi in the case of setting the wastegate at 20psi.
The farther apart your turbos are in size (spoolup, actually) the higher you'll need to set the wastegate.
Ideally, you'd have your big charger making at least 5psi before your total boost passes 25psi or so. This will allow you to gate that top charger at a lower level and still get the response you want and need.
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OMG somebody from the diesel world recommends a manual boost controller!!!!
I've been running one for years on my car and wonder why nobody uses them instead of those cheezy "boost elbows." You can build one with home depot parts for about $1.87.
I've been running one for years on my car and wonder why nobody uses them instead of those cheezy "boost elbows." You can build one with home depot parts for about $1.87.
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From: Laredo
Get one of these:
Plumb it into the line from your AFC to your wastegate.
Have them set your wastegate to the original OEM spec (around 18-20psi) and use this boost controller to raise it if you feel the need to.
As a rule, I'd suggest gating the top charger as low as you can and still light off the big turbo. This means, your big turbo has to already by making 2-5psi in the cold pipe before your total boost is 20psi in the case of setting the wastegate at 20psi.
The farther apart your turbos are in size (spoolup, actually) the higher you'll need to set the wastegate.
Ideally, you'd have your big charger making at least 5psi before your total boost passes 25psi or so. This will allow you to gate that top charger at a lower level and still get the response you want and need.
Plumb it into the line from your AFC to your wastegate.
Have them set your wastegate to the original OEM spec (around 18-20psi) and use this boost controller to raise it if you feel the need to.
As a rule, I'd suggest gating the top charger as low as you can and still light off the big turbo. This means, your big turbo has to already by making 2-5psi in the cold pipe before your total boost is 20psi in the case of setting the wastegate at 20psi.
The farther apart your turbos are in size (spoolup, actually) the higher you'll need to set the wastegate.
Ideally, you'd have your big charger making at least 5psi before your total boost passes 25psi or so. This will allow you to gate that top charger at a lower level and still get the response you want and need.
Hohn
im havin it set to 24 psi or so, where do i get that boost controller that u pictured? looks like its what i need...
Rick
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From: Cummins Technical Center, IN
Actually, it's not just a needle valve.
You're probably thinking it's a needle valve or something, but it's not.
Rather, it's a spring-loaded ball check valve, which I have not seen at the local HD or Lowe's or what not. When you adjust the ****, you are increasing the preload on the spring that seats the ball. This increases the amount of boost pressure that it will take to unseat the ball and allow pressure to pass to the wastegate.
A manual boost controller like this can only RAISE the boost required to operate your wastegate, so you'll want the actuator itself set fairly low-- stock setting sounds good to me.
You can get the MBCs like I posted in "low boost" and "hi boost" models that have stiffer springs. You want the stiffer springs-- the soft springs are for gassers running much lower boost levels.
The pic is from the site where I bought my cheapo little MBC: www.boostcontroller.com
Good service from them in my transaction-- no affiliation.
Justin
You're probably thinking it's a needle valve or something, but it's not.
Rather, it's a spring-loaded ball check valve, which I have not seen at the local HD or Lowe's or what not. When you adjust the ****, you are increasing the preload on the spring that seats the ball. This increases the amount of boost pressure that it will take to unseat the ball and allow pressure to pass to the wastegate.
A manual boost controller like this can only RAISE the boost required to operate your wastegate, so you'll want the actuator itself set fairly low-- stock setting sounds good to me.
You can get the MBCs like I posted in "low boost" and "hi boost" models that have stiffer springs. You want the stiffer springs-- the soft springs are for gassers running much lower boost levels.
The pic is from the site where I bought my cheapo little MBC: www.boostcontroller.com
Good service from them in my transaction-- no affiliation.
Justin
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 645
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Actually, it's not just a needle valve.
You're probably thinking it's a needle valve or something, but it's not.
Rather, it's a spring-loaded ball check valve, which I have not seen at the local HD or Lowe's or what not. When you adjust the ****, you are increasing the preload on the spring that seats the ball. This increases the amount of boost pressure that it will take to unseat the ball and allow pressure to pass to the wastegate.
A manual boost controller like this can only RAISE the boost required to operate your wastegate, so you'll want the actuator itself set fairly low-- stock setting sounds good to me.
You can get the MBCs like I posted in "low boost" and "hi boost" models that have stiffer springs. You want the stiffer springs-- the soft springs are for gassers running much lower boost levels.
The pic is from the site where I bought my cheapo little MBC: www.boostcontroller.com
Good service from them in my transaction-- no affiliation.
Justin
You're probably thinking it's a needle valve or something, but it's not.
Rather, it's a spring-loaded ball check valve, which I have not seen at the local HD or Lowe's or what not. When you adjust the ****, you are increasing the preload on the spring that seats the ball. This increases the amount of boost pressure that it will take to unseat the ball and allow pressure to pass to the wastegate.
A manual boost controller like this can only RAISE the boost required to operate your wastegate, so you'll want the actuator itself set fairly low-- stock setting sounds good to me.
You can get the MBCs like I posted in "low boost" and "hi boost" models that have stiffer springs. You want the stiffer springs-- the soft springs are for gassers running much lower boost levels.
The pic is from the site where I bought my cheapo little MBC: www.boostcontroller.com
Good service from them in my transaction-- no affiliation.
Justin
http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
I use a Dawe's Device on my car. It's great.
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From: Laredo
Hmm
i think i should have set the thing a little bit lower then... ideally im guessin i should be close and not have to adjust my boost too much. ill run the truck when i get the charger back and keep tabs on this one..
tyia
Rick
i think i should have set the thing a little bit lower then... ideally im guessin i should be close and not have to adjust my boost too much. ill run the truck when i get the charger back and keep tabs on this one..
tyia
Rick
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