Ok just looking for a little guidance on this, more or like what order stuff should be taken off or removed and any little "tricks" i should know about, someone told me about the plugs in the cowl for the last few pushrods, one question i have, do the injectors come out before the head comes off? Any special tools i'll need? The twins came in today so planning on pulling head this friday and having it oringed, i will also be putting in DDP 150s. None of this i have ever done, but i've wrenched all my life so hopefully isnt to much different. I plan on pulling the radiator and intercooler and having them cleaned, replacing what ever hoses will be off. ect ect... sorry for the long thread, but i appreciate the info..this is by far the best cummins site!!

Capn

 

A cherry picker would be handy. The injector should come out before removing the head so you won't chance damaging the tips.

 

also be sure to get the fuel line on the back of the head. and as with any job, organize the bolts and nuts! makes putting back together much faster.

 

almost everything needs to come off/out... injectors, connector tubes, injection lines, rockers, bridges, pushrods, intake horn, thermostat, etc.... list could go on. Don't forget to take out the map sensor and the IAT. About the only thing that stays on is the valve springs, valves and of course the keepers... I know I'm forgetting the little details but I think you get the picture.

It's not a hard job(I've had my head off twice) but it's a tedious job. Yes, the last few pushrods come out through holes in the cowl... there are rubber plugs that can be pain to get back in... don't forget that fuel return line that is attached on the back of the head. And you definitely want a cherry picker.

 

Drain the engine coolant out of the block. That will stop coolant from getting into the cylinders. There is a fuel drain at the back of the engine that is easy to miss. The head is heavy and picker is also a good idea. You planning on using ARP studs? I would also check for cracks in the valve seat area as the 24v is prone to cracking. Remove the injectors as the nozzle tips stick out slightly. Turn the valve cover upside down. This works nice to keep the valve rocker and the injector retainer divided into cylinders. I even put the injectors into the valve cover. The injectors lines come out in two clumps and do not take them off one at a time. The exhaust manifold can stay on, but you have to remove the turbo. Get a upper cummins gasket kit as it has the little hard to find parts i.e. cross head tube orings, valve cover bolt seals, intake manifold gaskets, and so on. You might want to remove the old head gasket material of the head and block prior to reintalling the new gasket. Don't drop any gasket material into the block holes and check the piston tops and cylinders for damage. Enjoy!!!

 

thanks guys, this is just what i'm lookin for, just the little stuff, its got 195k on it, so planning on having all the valves and guides checked. Heres one more ?, this is from a reputable shop, they say unless i'm changing cam, to just put .020 shims under the valve springs, this will give them a seat pressure of 135 or good for 80psi of boost..anyone else heard of this?? Thanks again for all the info....
Capn.. and yes i do have a cherry picker..lol

 

Just watch for valve spring binding up? Do the feel gauge check afterwards. They usually do that on weaker springs to get them back-up to spec.

 

Here's something to consider while you have your head at the machine shop. 3rd Gen valve stem seals. There is a little machine work involved because they're top-hatted but I think it's absolutely worth it.