Blob

Hey all blob here ..just put a egt gauge in my 2001 ctd 5 speed .wondering what temp I should be seeing while towing .I installed it post turbo ...




Thanks, Blob

infidel

Post turbo is generally 300° lower than pre turbo but can be as much as 500° lower depending on conditions.
900° is about the most you want to see constantly.

Don T

I put my Pryo in before the turbo and have never seen any higher that 850 deg pulling hard on a hill.

KATOOM

Post turbo is a "general" reading and as noted, will read approximately 300* less than pre-turbo. I'd suggest moving it to the exhaust manifold as thats the most accurate. If you're not towing and dont really care how accurate it is, then its up to you.

BarryG

I have egts post and pre turbo the 300 deg variance is pretty good from what I have seen on my gauges (my original guage and then added post when I added my Edge JA). In general it is less than that but when you are concerend with egts it is generally when you are pushing it hard or towing and then the 300 deg is in the ballpark. I dont think I have ever seen over 350 in difference and that was pedal to the metal towing up a mountain pass at altitude. So the previous poster who mentioed 900 deg max post turbo is also in line with what I have seen.

Blob

Wow I get 600-700 up some hills unloaded , towing im expecting alot more
what will bring the egt down? I have 4" exaust (except down pipe its still stock) AFE air intake ... I understand to bring them down you let off the pedal

is this true ? I have a 5 speed manual trans ,gear up/ gear down?

Thanks Blob

KATOOM

If you dont have a lot of aftermarket fueling components then you're towing EGT's will be fine. General perception would be that if you're seeing 900* unloaded then adding a trailer will only cause the EGT's to skyrocket. But in reality, that doesnt happen. EGT's are a direct relation to the amount of fuel, RPM's, and boost. You'll find that the additional boost from the additional load will offset the EGT's.....to a point. There are many other variables but thats the just of it.

Midnite

Your free flowing exhaust and intake will help a lot. Beyond that, anything that will advance injection timing will also help, like a Smarty programmer, or the Edge products. Driving technique can also play a role. For example, if you're pulling a hill in 5th gear at 55 mph, you would probably see a bit lower EGT by downshifting to 4th and raising RPM (and it would be better for your transmission too).

If you start adding serious power upgrades like injectors and fueling boxes, then a bigger turbo is what you would be looking at. But with a basically stock engine, a bigger turbo would do more harm than good.

Blob

Ok so I towed my 4000 lb travel trailer with a 650 lb quad in the truck box up lots of long steep hills this weekend . to keep the egt at or below 850 was a chore ....gearing down and reving the engine at 2300+ for most of the hills...Is this normal? the temp gauge went up a few times too ( never moves much past 90 normaly)




Blob
2001 ctd 5 speed
quad Cab long box

KATOOM

Sounds perfectly normal given the weights and RPM's you described. If you cant keep the EGT's under 1100* (pre-turbo) by simple use of gears and reduced speed, then you have something to be concerned with. Then even at that, it would depend on the level of fueling too. More fueling necessitates a more free flowing intake and exhaust to help.

Dane

That's how you should always drive it when towing. Lugging any engine is hard on it, especially when pulling a load. A motor that's spinning higher rpms is getting higher oil pressure and working less. The engine will last a lot longer if you keep the rpm's up when towing or pulling a steep hill.

oliver foster

You can run 1200 all day if you are reading it pre turbo.
I never see that on my '01 even towing heavy it never goes over 1100 on setting 4 of my Edge Attitude with Juice.
My NON I/Ced '90 12V in my '85 crew will see 1350F* pre turbo for a second or two at a time under WOT on a hill.

Don T

Well I`am lost reading that statement. A gas engine needs to rev to make any power , well all I ever had needed to be turning hard. When I see a hill coming I usually give my truck a little more fuel ( a few mph) and let the truck settle in to the load just hold my foot where it was.I can be pulling hills at 55 mph locked in od. I just thought that is what a diesel does best. never thought I was abusing it by lugging it.When I drove big trucks I would use there torque range in what ever gear kept them pulling.I use 1450 to 2000 in my truck . over two is just a wast of fuel. I was tough to watch my boost gauge . Keep the boost low for good fuel mpg . Seems to be working fine for me.

KATOOM

Dane is correct in talking about the engine RPM.....but I dont think to the degree you're thinking. For the most part I think that the majority of people understand how to run their engine while towing, but there are the few who dont understand that low RPM's can be harmful. But in saying that, the proper RPM range will be dependent to the engine and the application. Certainly it is not good to tug around 10k in OD at 1500 RPM. The hammering affect on the crank is placing a considerable load on the journal bearings. That RPM would be almost too low for a class 8 truck as well. These ISB engines have a sweet spot for towing thats around 2000-2300 RPM. If you're towing less weight then its safer to run more in the 1800-1900 RPM range, and of course, if you're towing really heavy then you'll probably need to be in the 2400-2600 RPM range. But simply letting the engine chug along no matter the load will place undo stress on the crank journals and the drivetrain. Actually, this is why the 24 valve engines were introduced. The 12 valve engines are great towing motors too but lacked the RPM range, so the 24 valve engines were born.

In saying all that, this isnt to much of an issue since most people will find that they cant keep their boost high enough to keep EGT's in check while running too low of RPM's.

And Don T, I'm not schooling you since I know I'm not telling you anything you probably dont already know.....but rather just informing the thread.

infidel

I always thought the 24 valve was born to meet EPA Tier III diesel emissions requirements.
Cummins was planning going straight from the 12 valve to the common rail engine but it wasn't ready in time for when the regulations changed on Jan 1, 1998.
That's why the '98 12 and 24s are only half year models.