Big Blue24

Well, I finally got around to installing this 3rd gen turbo. It took all day and I have only tested it up to 16 psi boost measured at the intake manifold.

When I took off the oil filter for easier access to the drain tube, I noticed that my oil looked a little funny. It seems that an injector oring went out and I'm making engine oil with fuel. I change my oil today, but until I get this fixed, I am not going to beat on the new turbo too much.

That said, it spools faster than the stock HX 35.

4" straight pipe dumping right before the transfer case is LOUD! I set off two car alarms today by accident.

I have not painted the cold piping yet, I wanted to pressure test everything before I paint in case I need to rig up some latches or straps to hold joints that might come apart. I used the stock tube flipped around and pointed upwards a little more. It is also buried all the way into the 3-3.5" bending reducer silicone boot. I would have just cut the stock pipe down but I need to be able to go back to stock if this experiment does not work. Third gen HE351 turbos are louder than second gen HX35s.

I also tested this turbo before hooking up my coldpipe and I was amazed at the idle airflow that this turbo pushes. I had both the turbo blowing and inlet cold piping side by side and the turbo definitely pushes more air at idle than the engine intakes. Maybe at idle speed, back pressure will slow the turbo till it matches what the engine consumes and therefore no positive manifold pressure at idle.

Anyway here are the pictures:

Big Blue24

I should also clarify, I have only tested up to 16 psi because there was fuel in my oil and I don't want to push it till I get that fixed. After I changed my oil tonight, it got really stormy and snowy here in Utah so it is not the best weather to hotrod or break down in if I blow a boot or one of my fittings at 40 psi.

And right now, I don't have my boost controller and 16 psi is where my oversized gate is opening with stock fueling. I have turned my Adrenaline off to avoid the temptation till I get fuel mixing problem solved.

Now the gate normally opens at 25-26 psi stock on 3rd gens, unless the ecm tells the solenoid to bypass/ bleed off some of the boost pressure signal that would normally go straight to the actuator mechanism. These turbos operate at slightly worse than 1:1 ratio so at 26 psi boost, there is about 26-30 psi drive pressure. So if I assume that wastegate and actuator have nearly the same effective surface area for the pressure to work on, there needs to be about 56 psi combined for wastegate to start moving. Since I increased the wastegate surface area by 33%, it now places more force on the wastegate spring and thus takes less boost pressure on the actuator to open the wastegate.

1.33 x 30psi drive pressure = 39.9 psi worth of force.

56-39.9=16.1psi. That is precisely what I am experiencing. Wastegate is opening around 15-16 psi boost measured at the intake manifold.


I know someone on here is going to pick apart my assumptions about force and state that force=psi x area. I understand this concept, and have somewhat retained it through the use of a ratio and equating drive pressure's effect essentially equal to boost at actuator diaphram's effect.

It does make sense, however, that a larger wastegate will exert more force on the wastegate spring assembly and lower the required amount of boost to crack open the wastegate.

J Lent

It looks good, but I was just wondering how you are installing your air filter. It looks like it will hit on your cold pipe.

Ph4tty

I'd spend a good amount of time pressure testing that setup in the driveway before taking it out to play. You've now got three more boots that could potentially slip.

On a positive note, you could run a 3rd gen exhaust brake easily enough now

J Lent

I was wondering why he didn't just turn the compressor housing downward & have less connections.

rebal

is that an HY housing ? looks small maybe thats the reason for a lot of air at idle

Big Blue24

I didn't turn the compressor housing because I wanted to retain the stock wastegate geometry/ actuator setup. I have a K&N plastic intake/cone filter that still fits. I designed my coldpipe radius to barely clear it. It would have been a lot easier to turn the compressor housing but after looking/thinking about it for a couple days, I thought it would be more difficult to fab up a new wastegate setup.

This is a stock HE351 turbo from an 05' ctd. It is stock 9cm, housing but I opened up the wastegate 33% to about 27mm. It uses the stock full 4" cast elbow and some of the stock 05' downpipe although it stops short and does not bend low enough for great clearance. Right now my truck is a loud 2 ft long straight pipe.

As far as blowing off boots, I'm sure it will happen, I just need to take care of my fuel in my oil problem before I test out the weak links in this new setup.

Did anyone notice my redneck washer stacks on the manifold studs?

GFB

If you have access to a welder, put a small cold bead on a couple spots around the end of the new piping. That should keep it from coming off.

GFB

Also, is your puke bottle overflowing? Looks like a lot of grime on the side of that battery.

Big Blue24

I may sound like a dummy but when I first fired it up, I forgot to hook up the oil supply line. Whats even more dumb is that I had just spent 20 minutes forcing oil through the turbo with an eye dropper squeeze bottle so that bearings would never run "dry". Then after I finished, I made a quick check for lingering tools, rags, etc, somehow missed the oil supply that I had tucked behind the pyro, and started her up.

50 gpm or whatever the oil pump can supply is a lot of oil everywhere in the ten seconds it took me to figure it out and shut it off!

Big Blue24

If and when I blow a boot off, I think I might try bending a couple of washers to a 45* angle and then using some epoxy to hold them to either side of the boot. I would then use a little wire between my two "epoxied eye lits". That way all I would need is a pair of dikes to gain access to the pipes and some cheap wire to reattach. What do you all think? Is this too crude for a cummins?

Big Blue24

Here are a few more pictures of how the intake plumbing and coldpipe plumbing fit together.

ScottGregory

Big Blue24, I wouldn't feel bad about forgeting the oil supply line. When I did my first turbo swap I forgot to put the oil filter back in.
It is amazing how much oil our oil pumps move... Engine was empty in a matter of seconds. 3 gallons of engine oil on the driveway is not fun.

HOHN

Good job BB24! I personally wouldn't do it because the hassle/reward ratio isn't favorable enough to me.

But good on you for getting it DONE! The doers are far more important than the talkers-- and I'm surely and sadly in the latter camp

haloman

Hope it works out for you Blue