No, I don't plan on using any spray. The class I will have to pull in doesn't allow for spray.

I say 65lbs, Im not real sure what Ill have it set at. I just heard that thats about all they are good for. When I get all my parts in and the truck ready, Ill go out and see what it will do. That turbo on my 07 right now makes about 46lbs. Im not sure if the wastegate is holding it back or if thats just all it will build with the fuel I have going to it.

 

Around my area they are haveing a stock turbo class for sled pulling. you can tak any stock turbo off any truck 1ton or under and put together a turbo for your truck. I'm wanting to run a new turbo like BB24 but is that the best turbo to run? how are the DMAX turbos or ford compaired to the 4.5 newer turbos? is there any way to change the hot side on the 04.5 newer dodges to fit the hx35? I know it would have to be completely fabed up but is there a way?
DM01

 

If you make a wastegate spring and rotate the housing around will this turbo line up pretty good. I'm getting close to putting one of these on and want to try to figure out the best route. I have the flange from mpi and a down pipe spotted together but the cold side has me doing alot of thinking.

 

What do the rule as stock? You could put lots of different turbo types that were stock on many hi-way trucks. Stock to me is what originally came on the truck, if that is the case you might be out of luck for using a 3rd gen turbo.

 

The rules DodgeMan is talking about say that you can run any stock, unmodified turbo off of a 1 ton or smaller diesel truck. So, a 6.5 chevy could run an HX35 for example, or a powerstroke could run a duramax turbo. Just cant modify the turbo's any.

 

BB, why did you keep the exhaust elbow on the HE351? Wold an HX-40 style down pipe work if you removed the exhaust elbow?

 

I'm not sure exactly how big the hx40 flange is or if it's the same as the 3rd gen flange. My 3rd gen turbo came with the cast elbow so I decided it would be easier and cheaper to round up a scrap of 3rd gen down pipe, 18"x4" flex, and 2 band clamps.

 

I bought a couple of flanges from mpi, good price. I'll ask again, if you rotate the housing will it come close to hooking up on the stock pipe on second generation?

 

Efficient at 65# boost? Surely you jest!! There's not a chance that compressor is even over 50% "efficient" at 65psi. More likely it's around 40%, if that.

A cam or something to improve headflow would pay far bigger dividends than just cranking up boost from a single charger at 50psi to 60-65psi. Unless you are spraying to try and reclaim some of that lost density (the cold nitrous is a very effective intercooler), don't bother with a single at 65psi. You might actually have less airflow at 65 than at 50.

jmo

 

If you rotated the compressor it would be close but still not work. The stock cast elbow that vband clamps to the hx35 locates the outlet about 2" lower than the 3rd gen outlet. The overall length front to back or closeness to the intercooler is the same, just the outlet is 2" too high.

 

sharing info, not sure if you know. HE341/HE351 outlets are 4 3/8" while the HX-40 is 4".

 

Sounds like it would be easy to hookup with the housing rotated. I've got to get off my dead butt and get one of these turbos on truck.

 

Im just going by what ive been told by guys on here that have run them and also the rep from Industrial Injection. I just want to get the most out of this turbo, as that is the biggest that the 2.6 class allows and you can't spray. So, I may have to wastegate it lower to still be efficient, whatever I have to do.

Do you think I'll be over 600hp with this setup? 2000 24 valve, Silver bullet, Mach 6's, Redline or Adrenaline, and with the other appropriate supporting mods?

 

You should have 600hp, I'd think. If you are limited by your pulling class to a SB sized charger, then it is what it is-- just go with it.

But calling it "efficient" at those is simply a stretch of the meaning of the word.

It's like saying it's "effective" to do dental work with a sledgehammer and chisel. Yes, it might produce a better overall outcome, but it certainly not optimal.

If you are pulling and wanting big power with in those limitations, then you need 1) more RPM and 2) better airflow at higher RPM.

You sound like a candidate for a Helix 3 cam to go with your redline box and M6s with that silver bullet.

You'll have every bit of 600hp worth of fuel-- the question is can you burn enough of it in time to make the number.

The fuel consumed per power stroke is mostly proportional to engine tq, not hp. So if your pump and valvetrain will support elevated RPM, you can "make" HP by shifting your tq to higher revs.

Example, my truck makes about 900lb-ft at 2K rpm. If I shifted that to 4K rpm, I'd have 685HP!

You get to a point where you need larger injectors to make more HP not so much because you need a large total quantity of fuel, but because you need to be able to flow that amount of fuel in a lot less time. That means a higher flow injector.

This is why you often see engines pull better into higher RPM with larger injectors even if the electronic mods haven't used to disable the fuel cutoffs.

For example, I used to have an Edge EZ which doesn't do anything to the factory 2700rpm fueling cutoff point. When I installed larger injectors, my truck would pull a LOT harder past 2700 rpm, when the higher flow not only gave me more fuel, but better coped with the shortened injection time of higher RPM.

JH

 

Thanks for the info. Yes I do plan on doing more headwork for more air and also a cam in the future. The Redline and Adrenaline both fuel to 4k+, so I think thats about all the rpm im gonna get out of it for now. My stock sovp44 runs fine right now, but I guess I'll find out if its good enough to support 4k+. Thats probably all Im gonna get done for 09', but maybe in 10' I can get the headwork and cam done. I will be getting better valve springs and studs this spring though.

This is gonna be my first year for sled pulling so I guess I learn alot more about my truck and the sport this summer.