Paul Winey

Waylan:

Glad to hear the install went ok. Does wake the truck up, doesn't it? If you add the GSK, 370's and delivery valves down the line you will need something more than the 62 mm HTB2 if you want to use all of the power. Now if you play conservative it would be ok. If I bury the throttle I can peg the pyro at 1500 until I back out. For hard pulls, passing, and rolling into the throttle the HTB2 does great. They do have the HTB2 with a 64 mm wheel or their sled-puller with a 66 mm wheel that would extend your power range. I'm running a plain HTB2 and will upgrade this Spring/Summer. If you add the spring kit you really won't add much more fuel so won't get too hot. When you add the injectors then you will need a bigger turbo at some point if you want to use all power available. I have 370's, 191 DV's, #100 plate and the 3K GSK due to the auto tranny. Can't really tell you more about the 4K kit other than I have seen most using heavier exhaust valve springs.

CTD NUT

I have a very similar set up compared to Paul's except for the turbo.......I only use the HX35 w/16cm housing.........not the ideal setup........HTB2 is definately the way to go if you can swing it........right now egt's are toasty at the end of a 1/4 mile run and if I have to be very mindful of the pyro when towing........Just hot rodding around empty is no problem.......bottom line: I can't use all the fuel 370's deliver with my existing turbo.
Definately install the gsk.......makes a big difference in drivability and top end power......it won't change egt's too much........IMO, I would not consider a DV swap for your application as your pump already has 181 DV's and they provide enough fuel for the 370's.......I doubt you would notice much of a difference going to 191's........Many guys run 181's and 370's together with impressive results........Yes, definately wait to install the 370's until you get a turbo.
The barking sound from the turbo when you left off the throttle quickly at high boost will not hurt the stock turbo at your boost levels however, when fueling and boost are increased it can damage or destroy a turbo........seems to be a problem with HX40's......I got to see a main shaft snap in a HX40 because of the "bark"........big singles and most twins run blow off valves to prevent damage from occuring.

walexa

Thanks again for the responses guys! I will try to get the gsk installed this week. I also need to get a 4" exhaust, cut the hole in the cowl for my scotty II, and advance my timing.

Question regarding the HTB2: I know I will need to get a downpipe with it......will the new downpipe clamp to the 4" exhaust I will be getting? Or do I drive it to a muffler shop w/o the pipe connected or what? I would assume an exhaust clamp will seal the deal, but not real sure.

Also, with my current setup, I can blow a pretty good haze of smoke out.......not like in videos I have seen where it is solid black, but still it's a lot of smoke........my afc is full forward and no adj. to starwheel........is there a different setup that would be better? I like the smoke, so I'm not looking to get rid of it, unless of course there is more power with a different adjustment.

Paul Winey

Waylan:

With the HTB2 setup you can get the downpipe and a connector. It's really a pretty simple install. I did have to work on the oil return tube from the turbo to the block but it wasn't a problem in the end.

I know the smoke is fun but think of it as simply lost power (unburnt fuel). You can run the star wheel on the AFC all the way forward or get an AFC kit to allow more fueling at a lower boost. Besides, the soot gets hard to wash off the rear fender after awhile.

Paul

walexa

I'm back.........and got my timing advanced this past weekend. My cousin and a buddy helped me locate TDC using the valve method.......took about 30 minutes or so. The next day, we advanced the timing. I had read lots of posts on it, and was expecting it to take about an hour, but it ended up taking over 3 hours. First off, when the gear would pop off the shaft, I would lose lift on the dial indicator. This required lightly seating the gear, resetting lift to desired position, and popping the gear off again. Then, every time we torqued the nut down it would cause the gear to turn a little on the shaft. This made the timing even more advanced and I was afraid to leave it so advanced with the stock head gasket and bolts. For reference, I was shooting for 5.6mm lift and it would slip as much as 5.8 to 5.9mm of lift. Since I have the 215 pump, I wanted 16 degrees and no more..........it ended up taking us over 3 tries to finally get it right. What I believe we needed was a couple flat washers and a thrust bearing, but I'm not entirely convinced that would have kept everything from turning as the nut was tightened........because as you torque the nut, the gear is trying to rotate the rest of the engine. We used the fan nut as backup........it is left-hand threaded and worked well. Should I have used a different method for tightening?

Anyway, I was suprised that the truck idles smoother.......and what was shocking to me was how MUCH it dropped EGT's. I still have the stock exhaust and the hole for the scotty II is not drilled, but I have the 4kgsk and the #10 in stock position........and punching it in 5th does not make it climb into the red like it did before.........so when I get my #100 plate from northslope, I will see how my EGT's react to that......and move the plate forward as I can.

I have not put a whole tank on yet, so I don't know if my fuel economy will increase or not. My truck had 120K on it when I set the timing, and it had not slipped at all.......it was dead on at 13.5 degrees. Thanks for all the info guys.....I just wanted to keep this post updated as I continue on my road to more mods and power.

Waylan

gunracer1

you will like the #100 plate but your stock 12cm ex housing will be holding you back, the drive pressures will be very high. a 14 or 16 will wake it up over 2300 or so.

Boondock

What did you set the timing to?

How much of a drop in egts?

Did you already put in the SBC clutch?

walexa

Well, I went ahead and put in the PDR 370 injectors last night. I've had them since I bought my guages sometime ago. The temps can be kept in check with my foot, and that was a nice power increase. The #10 is still in the stock position. I would prefer to only upgrade the turbo once.........hopefully I go with the HTB2 in the next month or so.

Boondock, I set the timing to 16 degrees. Before the 370 injectors, with the #10 in the stock position, making 36-37 psi of boost on the stock turbo, stock pipe with cat & muffler replaced with resonater from later model, scotty II without hole cut in firewall.........it is hard to describe exactly how it delayed high egt's.........but it was very substantial and very noticeable. I could still get to 1500, but it took lots of work to get it there, and it would climb much slower. Wish I had better adjectives to describe it more clearly. Yes, everything in my sig is currently installed.

Waylan

halerazor

look at my mods exactly the same as your . i wish i would have done timing before injectors it cracks and pops at start up but once it warms up look out. i haven't put my valve springs in yet but mine came with exhaust and intake springs when i bought the 4gsk from haisley. i can peg my egts in about 8sec at full throttle but if i drive normally and only get on it every once in a while it don't get up that high. i have hit 55psi on my stock turbo(scary) but it hasn't blowin apart YET.

turbo thom

Waxlea..............I don't understand. If you bought all the stuff from Piers, why not get his advice. All the things you are getting here is what happened when these folks installed it. Now they're trying to help, I know. There are just some things yu will need to know. Just because you installed a governor spring kit, doesn't mean everything is OK. There are adjustments to be made that are only known to the tuners. That's where you need to go. I think you spent enough money to get a complete walkthrough with the installation. If you are just looking for conversion, then please excuse me and continue.
Just don't want to see you make a serious mistake that will cost you $ or drive you nuts.

..Preston..

walexa

turbo thom,

Thanks for the concern. I realize that Piers is an excellent source for advice, however, I have found this forum to contain what I believe is more knowledge in one place than any single vendor. So many people who have tried so many different combinations is very valuable and that is what I was looking for. I am definitely not trying to discredit any vendor and I believe in supporting the vendors. Anyway, thanks everybody.

Waylan