Steve10

I've had the Catcher installed for a while and love it. Thinking about going with the Mach 1.6 injectors and adding a Southbend clutch. I'll be pulling a TT and also a Polaris RZR in the bed to Colorado in a couple months. The weight should be ~11K lbs total. What do you think about EGT's with this combo? If I have to constantly back off to control the EGT's I might be smarter to make the trip with my current setup and save a lot of $$$

Philabuster

Great combo. Thread from last week:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=202867

Steve10

Thanks...just the info I needed. Probably go ahead and spend the $$$.

j-fox

Another thing you should consider is modifying the wastegate.
Drill it larger and drill the center divider. It will stay cooler on the top end.

Dieselcamper

I'm buying injectors on Friday. Whats best for towing 7000# with
low smoke and good power. Mach 1.6 or DDP110 ?

HOHN

Both would work well. The 1.6 is a smaller injector than the DDp110--- it will run cleaner but make a hair less power.

A Mach 2 is the injector to compare to a DDP110, imo.

Dieselcamper

I'm kinda torn between the two. I already have the RV275 injectors , so
going with the DDP75 injectors wouldn't be much of a bump. So if I went with
the DDP's I would have to go to the DDP110's, but from what I've read
here ,you shouldn't go above 100 hp injectors if you want to tow with the
stock turbo. On the other hand ,I heard the Mach 1.6 injectors are closer
to 100 hp in the HO engine that I have.

2500Ram

I'm all for bombs and upgrades but elevation is funny with temps. Real world temps for my 02 in Colorado pulling a 26' TT ~7000lbs in the Rockies. Easily 1300*+ if I'm not looking and watching. If I'm pulling a grade and the engine even things of lugging the temps are way high, now if pulling the same grade and I kick it into 3rd I'm fine 1100*.

I would still put in the new parts for the power and fuel mileage gain I've read about and I do plan on some 1.6 sticks in the future but I was also looking at a turbo for my setup.

So just be cautioned when the air is thin the temps rise so keep an eye on the temps. And you'll smoke like a bombed 12v if hard on the fuel.

Good luck.

Fern

What about the turbo first???

rebal

i have that set up on my 01 HO runs real strong I love it but 2 things #1 will roll the smoke if you mash it #2 I tow a 17k toy hauler and if i push the boost over 32 psi egts start to climb there is a lot more power there but egts are easy to control my next up grade is a PDR hybrid hx35 14cm. the thing i like most about this set up is the 24 mpgs it gets or 11.5+ towing the toy hauler. got to love it!

Steve10

Rebal, ever tow that toy hauler in the mountains? You're much heavier than I'll be, so if that's manageable, I feel better. Are you running the SB Con OFE?

HOHN

The problem is that almost any "upgrade" turbo is a actually worse for towing heavy in thin air. The stock charger that is undersized for big hp suddenly becomes your new best friend when yanking big loads up long grades.

Driving technique and truck-unique variables (gearing, trans choice, etc) greatly affect how a given load will tow.

For best performance in thin air towing heavy, you want the manual trans, short gearing (4.10 or more) and a stock turbo or close to it.

A CTD wound up to rated rpm (2700 for 2nd gens) can pull some seriously heavy loads all day long with no damage. If you have a 6 speed and 4.10s, you can run 2700 rpm in 4th gear (about 42mph) and pull pretty healthy sized loads even in thin air.

Thin air really changes how you go about things. You don't want the biggest turbo, you want the RIGHT turbo-- and for thin air towing, it's REALLY tough to do better than stock or stock-ish sized turbo (garrett stg 1, Turbonetics stg 1, BD Super B, etc).

JMO

Steve10

It's interesting how easy you can control the EGT with rpm, yet because of the available torque I'm always hesitant to wind up the rpms. I have the 3.54 gearing and when pulling with the cruise set I watch the pyro and decide when to cancel the cruise and downshift to 5th. When I'm on my diesel tractor I usually set the throttle to have the rpm's just under redline and I don't think twice about runnning for hours like that. I'm sure this cummins engine in an equipment application is run the same way.

Ben

Steve,

Dont' be afraid to wind the shifts out abit when needed. That's where that ecm will shine.

HOHN

Yes, it is. In fact, if you go to the cummins site and spec the "proper" gearing for your 5.9, Cummins says that the Dodge gearing options are both far too tall.

If you are going for fuel economy, Cummins STILL wants to see cruise rpms between 2100 and 2400 on the hwy.

Look here:

http://www.powerspec.cummins.com/pow...ng/gearing.htm


Oddly enough, Cummins says that cruising rpms under 1900 should be avoided with a B series. That tells me that most guys towing big loads should be gearing their trucks a little shorter and letting the engine wind up to where it was designed to operate.

These things can handle 2700rpm round the clock with no break. Hi rpm under load is your friend and is not to be feared.