JD730

I'm getting ready to have a head o-ringed. I know most guys are using .041" stainless wire.
Are there any issues with using .050" wire and having a .010" protrustion.

Jetpilot, any comments on this?

Jetpilot

No problem with doing that. Ensure they lay the wire in the middle of the fire-ring. Normally the grooves are cut .002 smaller so they would use .048 cutter. The best wire I have found is the one BHJ sells.

Doug

ratsun

Doug
No problems sealing the water jackets with the thicker wire and a hefty (.010"+) protrusion? I had a hard time sealing up my 24V at .013" with that wire. It seamed like I needed to do a re torque ever couple of months to seal up a little dribble of water from the side of the head? I just thought that the wire was not completely crushing into the fire ring and holding the head up a little?
Might be off base on this one though?

Jetpilot

Shouldn't be a problem.... Normally .041 wire is used but a lot of times .051 wire is used. The protrusion should be around .010 for most guys, I have done as much as .015 but it needed several retoques and heat cycles to get it snug.

99globalwarmer

get a mls head gasket i had to re torque my head all the time with my o rings now i have the mls head gasket and it sweet and its cheaper. pm me for more information.

Jetpilot

The MLS gaskets that are out haven't had enough time on them to be proven. They may be great but then again they may not hold, at least after a certain power level. Time will tell.... Kinda like the new Cometic gaskets, amy be great, or may not.

Nobody should need to retorque the head all the time. Once the head is seated (around 3 total torques) it should be fine. I have run over 900 RWHP on just 3 torques. If the head is leaking then something is wrong with the o-rings or install.

JD730

Doug,
I'm the one doing the o-rings, so if there's a problem we know who to blame. Its already setup on my bridgeport with the cutter set. I'm going to dig up one of the gaskets from my 24 valve that was already crushed with o-rings. I'm also putting the studs in that I got off you at spring fling, finally.

I know i asked you on the phone, but would there be any benefit in changing the intake seat angle from 30* to 45* at this time? Remember, it is a brand new head.

99globalwarmer,
This is on a 12 valve, I am unaware of any mls gaskets for a 12 valve at this time.

Jetpilot

Scheid does have the MLS gaskets for the 12v trucks, they just became available..... As for the valve angles, if you can change them and get the proper valve recession then I would do that. Be careful as it is real easy to get the valve too deep.

JD730

I know, I do alot of valve jobs on old equipment and alot of times the seats are beyond salvage and I have to either have inserts put in or do it myself. Knife edged valves the whole nine yards, some are real ugly.

JD730

Well, I finished them on saturday, first one had me a nervous wreck.

dieselman2300

Sheid diesel now has a MLS gasket for the 12 valves. When I talked to them they said they recommend using 14mm studs.
Does anyone know why they would suggest that? I am wondering why the 12mm studs wouldnt work.
I have heard that the 14mm can warp the block.

JD730

Just a guess, but a 14mm stud can put more clamping pressure on the head than a 12mm stud. I guess its taking the extra pressure to crush the rings and seal everything up.