This is day two that I've messed with these guages and finally I just took everything out and going to start again tomorrow. I'm trying to do an A-piller install of three guages, pyro, boost and fuel pressure. I did manage to get the old piller off , no problem but I can't seem to route the fuel line behind the dash in any way that I've tried. I do have a hole thru the firewall and a grommet in it. I read the instructs on TST's page and the ones on dieselpage but my fuel filter canister doesnt look like those and the hole i need to find to get the boost looks like it takes a 3/4 in drive ext to take it out--the biggest I have is 1/2 in. I wont even go to the troubles I've had trying to get the turbo off so I can drill pre turbo. Im maybe too particular or to mechannically challenged to do this but I want guages really bad. I need an ignition hot for the pyro box (Isspro) and then I think I can reach the ashtray light wire for the dimmer...jeez, not asking for help as much as venting my lack of skills in doing this..Maybe tomorrow will work out better.

 

I just installed gauges on my truck. if you havn't used the spare fuse holder in the fuse box. thats where you want to get your power. I used a relay off the battery and powered it through the fuse box. the spare fuse is powered through the ignition switch. It works great make sure you install an in line fuse. so you don't let the smoke out of the wires

 

the spare is still empty but what do I need to do to get at the back of the fusebox or do I need to? I mean like if I put the spare fuse in then where is the wire to hook to? Does the thremocouple box draw enough that I need a relay? I know there is lots of smoke in the wires and box just waiting on me to let it out and I don't want to do that

 

I didn't go to the back of the fuse box. I inserted a small wire connector in the fuse slot. THAT WIRE GETS FUSED. thats going to be your main power wire. thats going on the hot spade on a relay if your going to use one. I used a relay and a rehostat I got from radio shack. the rehiostat is so I can dim the lights on the gauges. I used two hot leads on the relay 1. to power the gauges 2.to power the lights on the gauges. whrks good. Iv'e also heard of other people on this sight using the ash tray light to get there power for the lights. there dimmed with the dimmer switch. just tap in the connector with a 3m connector. that works too.

 

thanks man, I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow. I just got flustered today and sometimes it's better to stop and take a step back..

 

good luck

 

I feel your pain. I am in the trows of a gauge install myself, and I have to totally rewire all my after market wiring that I have put in over the years so I will have room.

You can also tap the dimmer wire to your headlight switch for the gauge lights, although I like the seporate rheostat idea stated above.

It might be easier to take a straightened coat hanger and feed it down from the dash/a- pillar area until you can see it underneath then tape your wiring and hoses on to that pull it back up.

The boost tap on the engine is a 1/2" drive and is between the MAP sensor and the Fuel filter. You will need a 3/4" to 1/8" galvanized reducer. Take your plug out and take it in the hardware store with you, and the fittings for the gauge to make sure you get the correct parts.

Fuel pressure may need a replacement drilled and tapped banjo bolt, or remove the schrader from the VP44 test port and attach to that. You should get a needle valve and a grease gun hose to make an isolator to take some of the pulsing out of the fuel pressure.

EGT can be done with out removing the turbo. Drill the hole slowly and keep a vacuum on it to suck up the shavings. BEFORE you break through, coat the bit liberally in grease and continue drilling slowly, with minimal pressure. The grease will catch most of the shavings so they will not fall in. Do the same thing with your tap (coat it in grease) and clean it frequently. Before you install, use a magnet probe to put in the hole to pick up any shavings that may have gotten away. If you want to be extra cautious, put a fairly strong magnet underneath the manifold where you are drilling to make sure any chips that may get in are kept localized. Once you are done, let the engine idle for a couple of minutes to gently blow anything that may have gotten away from you though the system.

The weather is supposed to be a balmy 30 degrees today and clowdy...and I am doing this outside. Good luck!

 

thanks Sticks!! I'm going to give it another shot today. The weather here is a bit warmer so that shouldn't be a problem. I'm just short on skills but I'm persistant. I have all the stuff--just need to do it now. Good luck to you.

 

LarryJ

How did it go today?

Got mine in, and as an added bonus, they work too. Only about 2/3 of the rewire done. I should be able to get it done in the next couple of days after work.

Here is a couple of pictures of my custon gauge pod.

 

Hey man, looks good!!! What are the toggle switches for (curious). Must have been a cool time literally with the temps like that where you are. I did get 90% of mine done. I still need to tap the intake. I had a 7/16 bit, 1/4in npt tap but no drill with a 1/2 in chuck so I'll get one from work and do that next weekend. I'm comfortable with the drilling and such. The hard part for me was the elec and routing the braided line thru the dash. I'll do a couple pics next weekend. I have to be out of town this week--negative part of the job