Flatbed24v

I had a local shop put in my gauges the first time back when I was still a green horn to diesel. They put my pyro after the turbo and after talking with you guys on here, I wanted to move it to pre-turbo. I drilled a .339(letter R drill) hole 5/8 from center and 2" up from flange. Then tapped it with a 1/8-27 NPT. I installed the pyro and plugged the other hole up with a 18-8 stainless steel 1/8-27 NPT plug. I took it for a spin and wow what a difference. Before crusing around on 2x4 I wouldn't see more then 800, now it's more like 950. Before when hammering on it I would see 900 max on 5x5, now it is 1075-1100 on flat ground. Glad to have you guys here to help out and glad I moved it. What would be the highest continues temp to run, 1100? 1000? 1200? I know you can see short blasts up to 1300 but what safe for long runs?

Tate

1250 continuous, but spikes beyond that for short periods won't hurt anything. I've buried my pyro numerous times. Just try not to hold it there long.

Lil Dog

Same here. 1250 is my limit towing.. Empty, I try to keep it below 1500 LOL...

nickg

Banks claims you can run 1300 all day, its above that that damage is culimative...

http://bankspower.com/techarticles/s...t-is-important

Flatbed24v

some more info, after driving some more. It climbs higher now but it also drops faster when I let off. Also before when I park it and let it cool down before shutting it off it took awhile to get to 400 or below and now it gets there faster and drops faster when at idle

Lil Dog

It drops faster on cool down because the engine cylinders cool faster than the heat-soaked turbo. If you remember how long it took before to get the EGT's down that would be how long to wait. You want the engine cool, but having the turbo below the 400 mark is key to keeping the oil from coking.

Fueling around

They must have put the first bung in the turbo elbow? That hunk of cast will really heat soak which skews the pyro reading.
I don't think anyone has done temp testing on the cartridge. That's the danger point to get the temps down to 300°F before shutting down the lube oil supply from the engine.

mudwisr2

I have not broken 1000 on my EGTs (since I have had the gauge) and the pyro is pre-turbo. Cruising EGTs seem to never get over 700 on highway. I pull trailers almost daily. Not saying anythings wrong with your truck. Just found it interesting. Always good to hear someone deciding to work on something themselves.

Zeus1987

i have also never seen my EGT's go above 1000 i think ~900 is the most ive seen pre-turbo.

Fueling around

You have enough fuel to roast the engine. I would check inot it. Is the tip of the pyro approximately in the center of the manifold port?

Flatbed24v

Back when mine was post turbo, I couldn't get it above 900 (5x5 uphill) and several people told me it should be higher and that I needed to move it pre- turbo and now I feel that it is reading right. Even with my comp off I can hit 900 now.

j_k_auto

From what I was told preturbo is 200 deg hotter then after the turbo. Something to always keep in mind. So no matter where you have the probe you will have a 200 deg. difference.

Just food for thought.

AggieJustin

It's not always a static 200 degree difference. The average difference may be 200*, but when you first start hitting it hard, the difference may be much larger then 200*. Then as your backing off, they will start to come close again as the heat-soaked turbo is now heating the air as it passes through.

97 D-Tec

i dont shut my truck off untill the egts get below 300 and luckily on long runs(dead stop) my truck hits around 1300 degrees max

Fueling around

Difference between pre & post turbo temps?
A rough rule of thumb is 100° for every 10 psi of boost.