I removed the one DTT installed in our 96 STD 3500 today - it is a screwed up MESS.... after spending over 7k with them to have their full-boat trans installed, along with PacBrake and this "controller", it never was quite right. Repeated calls and then driving the sick truck up and across the border a couple of times didn't really do much for the issues, and they started ignoring us. Too busy going racing, I guess.

Said truck just got back out of the shop from a COMPLETE rebuild of that DTT trans. It had been parked for two years as it was not road-worthy and money had to go elsewhere. Had to have a new converter as the one it ate (thanks, screwy controller!) was completely destroyed, amazing the thing drove down to the shop. It was so bad they actually took pictures.... There was literally nothing left inside.

Installer (a very reputable shop local to us) said we needed to drive it a little and see how it acted - that during his test drives he had experienced random and unrepeatable occurrences of WRONG lockup patterns, failure to unlock, hunting-surging at random speeds and loads, etc. We all hoped it was the ECM re-learning after being under no power for a few days, but that is not the case.

So, back to stock for us - expensive lesson learned about exotic electronics. Unfortunately, this leaves us with a Pacbrake that is not much use on its own. As we often do haul heavy with this truck (now that we have it back on the road!) it would sure be nice to have TC lockup control that works with the exhaust brake. I have looked at ATS Co-Pilot, and evidently the Pacbrake controller only does the brake - not the tc. Haven't found others yet?

Any guidance from people more experienced in these things would be well received here. Obviously I will not be getting any more DTT products.

 

I have a 98.5 with the DTT trans and it has worked flawless for me BUT this had been installed by the previous owner and was done a few years back when they seemed to have better quality and customer care from what I read. When I first got the truck I called them and they where very helpful seems all has changed since then. I even bought another 2000 Dodge with the same trans and pac brake that was crashed for parts. Good luck on your venture. My boy had a 99 dodge a couple years back and he just put in a quality torque converter and had the valve body built up and worked good for 5th wheel trailer towing but never worked nearly as good as mine.

 

Well, after doing my due diligence reading and making phone calls to tech support staff, I ordered in the ATS Co-Pilot controller for our 96 Dodge 3500. I had not attempted to get into the wiring left over from removal of the DTT1140 until today - I just jerked the box and used the jumper plug DTT supplied to "go back to stock", which I was told was in case truck had to go through emissions check etc.

I have to say I am dumbfounded by the mess I found when I pulled the air box to get at the PCM and wiring harness. The ATS unit would use 7 wires MAX for our truck's application. The DTT unit has about twenty wires hacked into with numerous taps and diverted wires, all cut off really short and too close to the main terminal plugs for my comfort level. This is not going to be a fun job.

I'll put out a call for advice here - the ATS instructions for installation list an orange with black stripe wire that gets cut into for TCC - yellow wire from Co-Pilot unit goes to PCM unti via the OR/BK wire, and the blue wire from Co-Pilot unit goes to the end of OR/BK wire that goes down to the transmission. This is listed in instructions as coming off pin 11 on the B connector (white plug) on PCM. Trouble is - there seem to be TWO OR/BK wires coming out of that plug. One is cut into by DTT installation, the other was cut, but put back together with a butt connector.

Needless to say I'll be on the phone for some quality time with ATS tech on Monday, but can someone here point me at a full schematic for PCM wires in our 96? I am confounded, as the schematic in ATS instructions sheet only shows one wire in Orange/Black stripe on that plug.

 

My DTT Smart Controller on the '98.r was installed by Fred Swanson and indeed it was a wiring nightmare. It took him and a buddy hours to set it up.
I'm glad to see ATS has a simpler version.

 

After spending better part of two hours comparing the instructions for the DTT unit and the ATS unit wiring, I'm still shaking my aching head. I find only five wires for DTT that have same functionality as the ATS wiring. DTT lists a couple of things as separate functions that are not mentioned in the simpler ATS version. Dunno. Will have a list of questions for the ATS tech plus a few suggestions to make their already-clear instructions document even more idiot proof!
I'm heading to parts store for liquid electrical tape (to seal soldered joints) and shrink tube (for over the liquid tape) and am going to undertake retuning the entire PCM harness to stock FIRST.

Does anyone here have a tiny clue what the heck the two little plastic boxes with DTT labels are, that are mounted next to PCM on drivers side? White one has a pot adjustment inside, a red wire that is tapped to a green/black stripe wire (NO mention of this anyplace in docs) and orange wire that is connected to an orange wire in harness - stub of orange wire from PCM is taped off - and an orange wire with a test port plug on it's end, plus black ground wire. Black box has no adjustor, white wire tapped to OR/BK wire to pin 11 of middle connector plug (TCC) and black ground.

Both boxes are sealed, roughly two inches tall by 1.5 inches wide by 3/4" deep. NO labels other than DTT name. I'm figuring right now I'll take them out as part of the process of going back to stock wiring configuration - they must be related somehow to the controller box functions. NO idea what the green/black wire does, can't find it in schematic ATS supplied and as mentioned previously, these mystery boxes are not noted in any of the DTT documentation.